Beyond the baseline rallies and championship points, a new form of competition is unfolding in professional tennis: the fashion statement. Players like Naomi Osaka and Aryna Sabalenka are increasingly using custom-designed attire and statement jewelry to distinguish themselves, drawing attention that extends beyond the sport itself.
Osaka, preparing for the US Open, embraced an unconventional pre-tournament routine, engaging in high-fashion photoshoots around the Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. Her on-court ensemble for the first round, styled by Law Roach and inspired by basketball legend Allen Iverson, featured a sleeveless hoodie embroidered with press clippings, worn over a tulle ballgown skirt. This elaborate outfit, along with previous Grand Slam appearances that drew comparisons to jellyfish and the Eiffel Tower, has generated significant buzz, making her walk-on a highly anticipated event.
Sabalenka, the world No. 1, opted for a different approach, wearing a collection of jewelry valued at $400,000 for her first-round match. The "Silhouette" suite, created by her sponsor Material Good, is the fourth such custom set designed for her appearances at the Grand Slams, with each set featuring gemstones inspired by the tournament's host city.
These sartorial choices are increasingly allowing top players to transcend tennis, capturing the attention of mainstream fashion and pop culture audiences. Their tournament-specific looks are dissected on social media and discussed in publications like Vogue and TIME.
Osaka's unique deal with Nike allows her custom-designed kits, some of which are not available for sale and sell out rapidly. Sabalenka, while having input on color choices, has experienced less exclusivity. At Roland-Garros, her distinctive black and red mesh ballet-style dress was also worn by another player who purchased it off the rack, highlighting a different dynamic.
Other players are also leveraging fashion. Coco Gauff has collaborated with Miu Miu and New Balance on custom outfits that have garnered significant media attention. The Italian brand capitalized on Gauff's partnership with New Balance to create unique ensembles.
Traditional sponsors are also recognizing the influence of fashion. Nike has provided special recognition for rising talent Alexandra Eala, offering custom accessories. Eala wore a hair accessory shaped like a sampaguita, the Philippine national flower, at Wimbledon and had custom trainers for an exhibition match in New York.
The trend is also visible on the men's tour, with players like Lorenzo Musetti sporting designer jackets and Taylor Fritz wearing custom suits. However, these fashion-forward choices are not without their challenges, as evidenced by Matteo Berrettini's Hugo Boss outfit being disallowed by Wimbledon for not adhering to the dress code.
Despite the attention, fashion statements can attract criticism. Sabalenka faced online commentary labeling her US Open dress as "trashy." She defended her choice, expressing a preference for bold and different designs, noting a shift in fan reactions over time.
This focus on image and fashion echoes past sentiments, such as Andre Agassi's 1989 declaration, "image is everything," suggesting a long-standing appreciation for presentation in professional sports.