The humble trifle, a dessert often characterized by sherry-soaked sponge fingers, fruit, jelly, custard, and a generous topping of whipped cream, is experiencing an unlikely resurgence. Once a staple of 1970s family gatherings, this layered confection has reappeared on the menus of some of London's most prestigious restaurants and is seeing increased sales in supermarkets.
High-end establishments such as The Connaught, Simpson's in the Strand, and The Ritz are now featuring trifles, with prices reaching up to £25.25. Head chef John Williams of The Ritz described the dessert's appeal as lying in its simplicity, noting how fresh ingredients create distinct layers of flavor and texture. However, top chefs are also introducing innovative twists, with variations including watermelon and fennel, bitter chocolate with cognac, or seasonal fruit preparations.
Supermarket sales of trifles have also seen a significant rise, with one retailer reporting a doubling in sales of strawberry trifles compared to the previous year, and chocolate trifles up nearly 40 percent. Online searches for trifle recipes have also surged. This trend extends to social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, where creative trifle concoctions are widely shared.
Food experts attribute the trifle's comeback to nostalgia and a desire for simplicity, particularly appealing during times of uncertainty. Tom Parker Bowles, a food expert, highlighted its universal appeal, noting that it can be served at both state banquets and family gatherings. He also emphasized the dessert's accessibility, stating it does not require complex culinary skills.
The history of the trifle dates back to at least 1585, initially as a flavored cream. Over time, alcohol and sponge were added, with jelly becoming a prominent component by the mid-18th century. Similar dishes exist globally, such as Italy's 'Zuppa Inglese' and Scotland's 'Tipsy Laird.'
Despite a dip in popularity in the late 1980s, when it was perceived as old-fashioned and overly rich, the trifle began its comeback in the early 2000s. A notable moment was Nigella Lawson's inclusion of an Anglo-Italian trifle recipe in her 2002 book, 'Nigella Summer,' which omitted jelly but incorporated flavors like limoncello and mascarpone.
Discussions about the inclusion of jelly in trifles persist, though many, including Parker Bowles, advocate for its traditional place in the dessert. Recipes for the trifle vary widely, with many agreeing that the more alcohol added, the better the resulting flavor. The dessert is often described as classless and quintessentially English.