Esteemed travel writer Ben Mack found his recent journey into Algeria's Sahara Desert more memorable than any of his previous experiences in over 120 countries, including Antarctica. The expedition, a camel-powered trek through the vast, rocky labyrinth of the Tassili n'Ajjer, offered a profound sense of stepping back in time.
Mack described the landscape as one that easily sparks the imagination, with cliffs and canyons resembling ancient, ruined walls, and large boulders and pebbles creating an infinite maze. He was particularly impressed by his Imuhaɣ (Tuareg) companions' ability to navigate the terrain without relying on smartphones, especially given the lack of Wi-Fi or phone signal.
The journey began from the frontier town of Djanet, a place where concrete and wood structures contend with encroaching sand. Mack embraced the adventure, even dressing in attire reminiscent of T.E. Lawrence, also known as Lawrence of Arabia. The surreal landscapes fueled his imagination, surpassing even his experiences glamping in Antarctica.
Into the Desert Labyrinth
During the trek, the group traversed undulating dunes, barren plains, and narrow, rocky passes that Mack likened to the forbidding landscapes of Mordor from 'The Lord of the Rings.' The geological formations, remnants of an ancient seabed, often appeared remarkably straight, prompting thoughts of lost civilizations like Atlantis, a theme explored in Pierre Benoit's novel 'Atlantida.'
The group encountered a passing herder with his goats and purchased one for a meal. They also discovered ancient rock art, a renowned feature of the Tassili n'Ajjer. These thousands-of-years-old paintings on cliff walls, under overhangs, and within caves depicted diverse scenes of animals, men, and hunters with spears, showcasing a rich history.
Mack found riding the camels comfortable, comparing the experience to sitting in a comfy chair. The camels, though large, were quiet and gentle, easily accommodating the riders and carrying all necessary gear. Their smooth gaits were a distinct contrast to horses, and they instinctively followed a lead camel, requiring minimal guidance.
Desert Life and Culture
Each day, Mack donned a tagelmust, a long strip of light cotton worn by Tuareg men as a head and face covering for protection against the sun and sand. He found the garment surprisingly breathable.
The desert's beauty was a constant source of enchantment, with a sapphire-like sky and turquoise pools called gueltas nestled between ochre and onyx canyons, fringed by date palms. Sunsets painted the sky in vibrant hues before giving way to a star-filled night, so bright that torches were often unnecessary.
Nights were spent around campfires, fueled by scavenged wood. Meals consisted of sizzling meat and boiling soup. Mack shared his own culture by making a version of New Zealand's Southland cheese rolls using local flatbread and cheese, which were a hit with the group. Mint tea, intensely sweet and served with a thick foam, was a staple with every meal. Moustapha, the group's leader, also prepared a potent, sweet, and caffeinated drink he called 'desert medicine,' which revitalized Mack after long days of travel.
Even encounters with stray animals added to the adventure. On their sixth night, a herder's donkeys raided the camp, leading to a persistent, albeit ultimately harmless, battle for their food supplies. The incident concluded with the group sharing vegetables and Moustapha suggesting more tea and 'desert medicine' to regroup.