Nigella Lawson's 'Delicious' Bake Off Debut Puts Paul Hollywood in His Place, Reviewer Says

The Great British Bake Off has welcomed a new judge, Nigella Lawson, whose debut has been met with critical acclaim for revitalizing the show's format and her dynamic with co-judge Paul Hollywood.

Lawson, described as the "domestic goddess" and "Mistress of Meringue," joined the judging panel alongside veteran baker Paul Hollywood. Her arrival was seen by some as a potential "salvation" for the series, which has seen declining viewership in recent years. Critics noted that after 17 series, the show risked becoming "stale." Lawson's presence, however, is credited with "turning up the heat" and offering a "rescue remedy."

With "posh girl poise and bluestocking smarts," Lawson quickly established a "calm yet quirky authority." Her commentary during the first episode included observations like "there is something a bit savage about cardamom" and describing a cake as "very Dutch old master in the colours." She was also noted for her playful yet firm interactions with Hollywood.

Early in the episode, Lawson directly addressed Hollywood's preference for neatness, stating, "I know you like neatness, but I like a bit of goo." The review also highlighted a moment where, discussing a contestant's coffee icing, Hollywood commented it had "a nice bit of colour." Lawson's tart response was, "Almost as good as yours." When a contestant presented a Sacher Torte, Lawson informed Hollywood, "Schlag, that is Austrian for whipped cream," a moment described as "deliciously educational."

The reviewer suggests that Hollywood, who previously "patronised" Mary Berry and "undercut" Prue Leith, has now "met his match." Lawson's approach has reportedly put him "firmly back in his cake box," with the suggestion that he would not dare make his usual jokes about alcohol in bakes.

The season's contestants were described as a "carefully selected social and cultural smorgasbord," including a working-class single mum, a hairdresser, a baker in a wheelchair, and a drag king. One contestant, Connie, who baked a cake as a "homage to Caribbean flavours," engaged in a lengthy exchange with presenter Alison Hammond about picking mangoes in Jamaica.

Despite some "enjoyable chaos" in the first episode, including cakes that fell or were too warm to ice, and one contestant leaving due to illness, Lawson's presence was a highlight. The reviewer noted her habit of referring to cakes with feminine pronouns, such as "she is jaunty," which might become grating over time. However, they also pointed to the return of the show's signature innuendo, with moments like "A wet batter really needs longer" from Lawson and "The sponge is quite soft because the nut size is huge" from Hollywood.

A particularly notable moment involved a vegan baker named Danni who used a plant called "Sticky Willy" in her bake. Hammond's reaction, "Did you say Sticky Willy?" and Danni's subsequent description of her cake containing it, were labeled "outrageous Bake Off innuendo of all time." Lawson's reaction was to pause with a forkful of cake mid-air, but she "wisely said nothing."

Ultimately, Lawson's debut was deemed "tremendous," showcasing her as "quirky, commanding, funny – but also humane." Her reflections on cakes showing "anxiety" and her overall hopeful outlook, "I am full of cake and hope," were seen as making "everyone look and feel better about themselves. Even Paul Hollywood."