Christian Siriano turned the Herald Square Macy’s into a cinematic runway Friday night, transporting New York Fashion Week attendees from black-and-white film reels to full Technicolor finales with a spring 2026 collection steeped in old Hollywood glamour.

Hidden behind cream curtains, the designer opened the show with a dominant black-and-white palette—polka dots, stripes and plaid—then shifted to vivid hues including a Tiffany-blue ball gown and a Barbie-pink deconstructed tuxedo dress that suggested the moment “the film turned to color,” Siriano said.

Siriano said he drew direct inspiration from Marlene Dietrich and her play with masculine and feminine silhouettes, applying texture and tailoring alongside theatrical volume. The collection ranged from sharply tailored blazers worn in a modern way—some paired only with tights—to voluminous bubble and tulle dresses. Accessories included flat-top and oversized whimsical hats that echoed Siriano’s long-standing affinity for headwear.

The VIP front row read like a Hollywood casting: Whoopi Goldberg sat between Oprah Winfrey and singer Lizzo, and singer Adam Lambert arrived in a bronze belted blazer coat with oversized matching sunglasses. Actress Natasha Rothwell, attending her first fashion show, described the event as “everything,” adding, “I want to spend an insane amount of money.” Many attendees arrived dressed for theatricality in tulle and corsets.

Longtime Siriano muse Coco Rocha provided two signature moments. She opened the show in a black-and-white stripe and polka-dot organza blazer with a mini skirt and matching hat and closed the runway in a billowing off-the-shoulder polka-dot tulle gown. Minutes before the show, backstage crew were still making final adjustments to her closing look, underscoring the fast-paced nature of live presentations.

Siriano emphasized inclusivity in casting, dressing models of all sizes, genders and backgrounds. “It’s just important to have a mix of beautiful people,” he said, noting that inclusivity remains a priority for his brand as some in the industry pull back.

The presentation doubled as a commercial and cultural play: Siriano, who won the design competition Project Runway in 2007 and has returned to the show as a mentor, is also the creative director for Macy’s I.N.C. ready-to-wear brand as the line marks 40 years. He said bringing a runway to a major department store was in part an effort to draw customers back into retail spaces.

Siriano described the show as a form of escapism. Models’ hair was styled in slick-backed buns with a single pin-curl wave, reinforcing the old Hollywood aesthetic while the transition to color offered a contemporary twist. The production aimed to make attendees feel transported to a different world, a choice Siriano framed as both entertainment and emotional respite.

The New York Fashion Week presentation illustrated Siriano’s ongoing blend of theatricality, commercial strategy and a commitment to diverse representation, and it reinforced his role at the intersection of celebrity culture and mainstream retail.