Passerine, an Indian restaurant that initially opened in November 2024, has been significantly revitalized under the culinary direction of Gaurav Bhatla, formerly a chef at "it" restaurant Ambassadors Clubhouse. Bhatla took over three months ago and shifted the establishment from a costly tasting menu to an approachable à la carte format, emphasizing a "New York bistro" approach to Indian food.
The restaurant's ambiance is designed for comfort, with 77 cozy seats, colorful jungle-print walls, and ochre-shaded tables and chairs. This contrasts with the more cramped or opulent settings of other prominent Indian eateries in the city. Co-owner Alvina Buxani stated the goal was to create "a New York restaurant with Indian food, not one transporting you to India."
The menu features several innovative dishes that blend Indian flavors with New York sensibilities. The "Bombay schmear," priced at $18, is a tandoor-baked naan filled with masala cream cheese, inspired by New York bagels. Burrata chaat for $20 incorporates smoked tomato slices from the Union Square Greenmarket. Lobster rolls, at $26, are served on brioche with Maine lobster and a smoked tomato gravy hinting at cardamom.
While these fusion dishes offer a playful take, the more traditionally Indian offerings are highlighted as particular strengths. The Paneer Makhmali ($32) is a dish of silky paneer cheese in a tangy achari masala with chili chutney. Bhatla's "obviously New York style" braised short rib pot pie ($46) is a rich, saffron-infused creation topped with puff pastry.
A "crab experience" ($95 for two) features a soft-shell crab in a crab-shaped bowl with shrimp and crab sauce, served alongside a slow-cooked dum biryani. This dish will be updated with king crab as soft-shell crab goes out of season. For dessert, Passerine offers a banana split with vanilla and mango gelato.
Passerine aims to provide a welcoming dining experience for those who appreciate Indian cuisine but are seeking an alternative to more formal or pretentious establishments.