British comedian Mo Gilligan undertakes a 28-day fried chicken diet in the Netflix documentary "Big Chicken: A Fast Food Conspiracy" to examine the multifaceted issues within the multi-billion dollar industry. The film, which is described as a "gimmicky quasi-activist documentary," delves into the health implications of consuming ultra-processed foods, the environmental impact of factory farming, and the cultural associations with fried chicken.
Gilligan, known for his stand-up comedy and television appearances in the U.K., revealed that he has previously earned income from voiceover work for fried chicken commercials. Throughout the documentary, he undergoes medical tests to track the effects of his diet on his health. His investigation takes him across the United States, the birthplace of fried chicken, where he speaks with psychologists, professors, journalists, activists, and scientists.
Industry Concerns
The documentary explores several key concerns related to the fried chicken industry. It questions the common perception of chicken as a healthier fast-food alternative, highlighting its contribution to the obesity epidemic. The film also touches upon the environmental hazards associated with chicken excrement from factory farms and the secrecy surrounding corporations like Tyson.
"Big Chicken" also delves into the cultural stereotypes associated with fried chicken, particularly within Black culture. It examines the historical connections of fast-food chains, such as Kentucky Fried Chicken, to the imagery of the U.S. slavery era. Gilligan's journey includes an attempt by two individuals to infiltrate a factory farm under the cover of darkness to document conditions, though Gilligan himself does not participate in the direct action.
The film draws comparisons to documentaries like Morgan Spurlock's "Super Size Me" and Michael Moore's "Roger and Me," positioning itself as a personality-driven investigation into corporate practices. Reviewers note that while the documentary aims to be informative and entertaining, its conclusions—that daily consumption of processed foods is detrimental to health and that corporations prioritize profit over public good—are not groundbreaking.
Illuminating Facts
Despite the familiar conclusions, "Big Chicken" presents some illuminating details about the industry. The film points out the vast scale of the fried chicken market, with approximately 22,000 chicken joints in the U.S. and KFC operating in 149 countries. Daily chicken sales in the U.K. alone reportedly amount to £12 million. The documentary also explores the psychological aspects of eating, including how food scientists work to make fried chicken "craveable" to encourage repeat consumption.
While the film's investigative dives are described as not particularly deep, it offers a collection of compelling claims and surprising facts about an industry that has a significant impact. The documentary concludes with responses from poultry industry representatives, which are characterized as unconvincing corporate commentary. Ultimately, "Big Chicken" is seen as a film that, despite its flaws in depth and focus, is kept afloat by Gilligan's efforts and the compelling nature of its subject matter.