A recent fashion trend featuring intentionally unbuttoned jeans, dubbed "foldover jeans," is drawing sharp criticism from parents while gaining traction among teenagers and young adults. These jeans, sold by various retailers from fast-fashion brands to luxury labels, are designed with the front fly left open, often featuring a folded fabric insert that mimics the appearance of unzipped pants.
The trend, which first emerged in 2022 with celebrities unzipping their own pants and rolling down waistbands, has now been adopted by retailers like Hollister, Edikted, Fashion Nova, and AGOLDE, with prices ranging from $35 to over $200. High-end brands such as Sacai are also offering versions of the style, with a pair from the Japanese label retailing for $1,210 at Net-a-Porter.
Parents have expressed dismay at the style, with one mother describing it as "driving me up the wall" and another questioning why pants need to appear to be falling off. Online commentary has also reflected a similar sentiment, with some likening the look to someone being "on their way to or from the bathroom."
Despite parental disapproval, the trend appears to be popular among teens. Sales associates at stores like Hollister report that the "foldover styles" are frequently sold out and restocked due to high demand. Nordstrom has also seen significant demand for its $279 fold-over jeans from the Spanish line Desigual, with the item being difficult to keep in stock. Students have even been observed buying larger sizes of denim and sewing down the waistbands themselves to replicate the look.
Fashion experts and commentators suggest the trend echoes historical fashion cycles and generational differences in style. Some connect it to writer Erica Jong's concept of the "zipless f**k" from her 1973 book "Fear of Flying," implying a desire for uninhibited expression. This interpretation notes that many of these jeans lack functional zippers, relying instead on a few unbuttoned buttons.
While many parents strongly dislike the trend, some acknowledge that fashion choices often evolve and that current styles can seem perplexing to older generations, recalling their own past fashion choices, such as sweatpants with rhinestone embellishments. The consensus among some parents is that, despite their personal reservations, it represents a typical rite of passage for adolescents.