Designer Joseph Abboud, a veteran of the American fashion industry, has expressed dismay over the perceived decline in men's fashion, particularly the casualization of attire in professional and public settings. Abboud attributes this shift, in part, to the widespread adoption of remote work following the COVID-19 pandemic, which he believes blurred the lines of appropriate dress.
"COVID was disastrous for young men understanding what's appropriate," Abboud stated in an interview. He recalled a time when men invested in classic pieces like navy blazers and gray suits for important occasions, and that New York City, once a global style capital, has lost its glamour and elegance. Abboud observed that people now attend events like theater shows in T-shirts and carry brown paper bags, a stark contrast to the past when men consulted fashion magazines like GQ and Esquire for guidance.
The designer also pointed to a broader societal decline, suggesting that the deterioration of the city's atmosphere, including visible homelessness and safety concerns, has contributed to the erosion of style. "New York City, greatest city in the world, should be ashamed of itself," he remarked.
Abboud, who previously worked for Ralph Lauren and dressed men for decades, now looks to his archives for inspiration, styling older pieces in contemporary ways. He advocates for a "buy better, not less" approach, inspired by European women who he feels expertly utilize and maintain their wardrobes. He noted the significant reduction in high-quality department stores, stating that out of over 100 great department stores in America when he launched his brand in 1987, only about four or five remain.
He also questioned the pricing of certain modern fashion items, citing an $800 bikini made from minimal fabric and $25,000 handbags as examples of inflated value. Abboud emphasized the enduring need for foundational wardrobe staples like a well-fitting suit for significant life events such as weddings, job interviews, or meeting a partner's parents.
Reflecting on his career, Abboud mentioned his work with Olympic broadcasting, noting that while some individuals were appreciative, he remains "unthrilled with their long hair and tattoos up the behind" when considering the modern American man he aims to dress. He also referenced a film series, "Dressed by Yves Saint Laurent," currently showing at Metrograph, which explores the iconic designer's work with actresses like Claudia Cardinale and Catherine Deneuve, as a nod to past eras of style.