Embracing gray hair is a growing trend, with celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker and Laurie Metcalf opting to showcase their natural color. However, whether one chooses to color or embrace their gray, hair colorists offer guidance on the best practices.
Gray hair is technically white hair that has lost its pigment. The melanin pigment in hair follicles, which provides color, diminishes with age or can be influenced by genetics, sometimes beginning as early as the teenage years. Stress, pollution, smoking, poor diet, and nutritional deficiencies can also contribute to premature graying.
Gray hair often differs in texture from pigmented hair, feeling coarser and sometimes more resistant to coloring. This change in texture means individuals may need to adapt their hair care and styling routines.
Common Dyeing Missteps
One of the most frequent errors colorists observe is the choice of permanent box dye, particularly darker shades. This can lead to a harsher appearance and potential damage, especially on the ends of the hair. Experts recommend using demi-permanent products for a softer coverage of natural grays, as they are less damaging and require less frequent application.
Applying permanent dye all over the hair every few weeks is another common mistake. This practice repeatedly opens and closes the hair cuticle, causing excessive wear and tear. Colorists emphasize that only new growth typically requires coloring, and applying dye all over is often unnecessary and damaging.
For those looking to blend grays, the omission of lowlights is noted as a missed opportunity. Professionals often use lowlights, highlights, or a combination of both, frequently employing hand-painted techniques like balayage for a more natural, low-maintenance result. Some suggest strategically coloring only the gray strands to create the appearance of highlights against the natural hair color.
Maintaining Natural Gray Hair
Even when choosing to let gray hair show, maintenance is key. Gray hair can easily pick up environmental pigments, leading to brassy, yellow, or muddy tones from factors like medications, sun exposure, pollution, hard water, and chlorine. Weekly use of a clarifying shampoo can help remove mineral buildup. Purple shampoos are also recommended to neutralize warm tones and brighten gray or white hair.
At-Home Solutions and Professional Advice
While avoiding permanent box dyes is a priority for many stylists, they acknowledge the utility of at-home solutions for maintenance between salon visits. Demi-permanent dyes and temporary root cover-ups are suggested alternatives. Sprays or powders from brands like Color Wow and Oribe can effectively camouflage grays at the roots.
For covering grays, colorists advise against aiming for 100% concealment. Creating a soft appearance around the hairline and allowing some natural gray strands to remain can achieve a more natural look. For significant gray coverage, a non-ammonia, demi-permanent all-over color is often recommended, as it is translucent and requires less maintenance than permanent dyes.
Embracing Gray
For those who wish to embrace their gray hair, experts suggest using a clear gloss or toner to enhance its natural shine. Adding a subtle violet or cool tone can further refine the color. A gloss with a sheer, pearly finish can complement and elevate the appearance of natural gray hair, providing an an elegant look whether styled naturally or smoothed out.