Alleva, America's oldest cheese shop, has reopened in New York City's Chelsea Market, marking a new chapter after 130 years in Little Italy. The shop, a staple since 1892, closed its doors in March 2023 when owner Karen King fell behind on rent payments, a situation exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic.
King, who purchased the shop in 2014 with her late husband, John "Cha Cha" Ciarcia, reached an agreement with her former landlord to break the lease and forgo back rent. Despite the closure, loyal customers expressed their anticipation for the shop's return. "People came yesterday when I was putting this sign up and they were from the neighborhood and they were screaming and saying how much they missed Alleva," King recounted.
The new location in Chelsea Market, a bustling food hall that attracts over 6 million visitors annually, represents a significant shift for Alleva. While the original store primarily operated as a grocery, the new establishment will emphasize prepared foods. "Little Italy was mostly Italian, this is international," King said of the new venue. "Chelsea Market is a place where people come from all over the world and you experience all the different heritages and foods that they bring."
The menu at the reopened Alleva features 13 signature sandwiches, including the "Cha Cha," named in honor of King's late husband and made with his favorite mortadella, provolone, crushed pistachios, and Dijon mustard. Other offerings include the "Siciliana" and the "Paesano." The shop also presents Italian entrees such as ravioli alla vodka and rigatoni bolognese, alongside desserts like cannoli and tiramisu. Chef Carlo Palandri, from Livorno, Tuscany, has created dishes like "Il Toscano," featuring porchetta, roasted garlic cream, and sharp provolone.
King also noted that the original Alleva Dairy building in Little Italy was partially demolished in January 2024 due to an illegal renovation, occurring on the same day as a cast party for "The Sopranos," a show her late husband had a connection to. "It all came down and now we're building here," King remarked.
Alleva's history is deeply intertwined with Little Italy, having served the community for over a century. King, a professional singer, took over the business after her husband's passing. Despite past offers, including a potential expansion plan, King's decision to reopen in Chelsea Market signifies her commitment to continuing the Alleva legacy in a dynamic, international culinary environment. The original 15-foot street sign is still in storage, but the shop now displays its original, century-old signs, and has retained its original phone number.