Teens’ Skincare Routines Under Scrutiny Amid Social Media Influence

Social media platforms are increasingly shaping teenagers' skincare habits, with many young people adopting complex routines inspired by online influencers rather than seeking professional advice. This trend, often driven by the pursuit of a "flawless complexion" or "glass skin," is raising concerns among dermatologists who emphasize the normalcy of teenage skin variations and the potential harm of over-treating.

Consultant dermatologist Dr. Jonathan Kentley notes that the "relentless images of unrealistic beauty standards" promoted online are a significant concern. He states that the concept of "glass skin" is largely unattainable and a result of excessive image filtering. "I've seen thousands of patients and I've never seen anyone with 'glass skin.' I don't think it exists," Dr. Kentley said. He also stresses that visible pores, blackheads, blemishes, pigmentation, redness, and scarring are normal aspects of teenage skin, with individual variations being key.

Acne affects more than 80% of individuals aged 13 to 18. Dr. Zainab Laftah, a consultant dermatologist, explains that hormonal changes, particularly rises in testosterone during puberty, lead to increased oil production and acne. Both boys and girls experience these changes, resulting in blackheads, whiteheads, and inflamed spots. "Acne is very, very common and it's normal and treatable," Dr. Laftah stated.

Salicylic acid is identified as a helpful ingredient for teenagers with oily or acne-prone skin, as it can penetrate pores to clear sebum and dead skin cells. However, both experts caution against excessive or unnecessary use, which can lead to dryness and irritation. For severe acne or skin problems, Dr. Kentley recommends consulting a GP or dermatologist rather than relying on social media advice.

Recommended Skincare Practices

Experts Dr. Laftah and Dr. Kentley suggest a streamlined approach to teenage skincare:

• Simplicity is Key: A basic routine should include a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher.
• Avoid Over-Treatment: Complex routines with frequent exfoliation or strong active ingredients can irritate developing skin barriers. Dr. Kentley has observed a rise in perioral dermatitis, linked to the overuse of ingredients like exfoliating hydroxy acids and retinoids. Dr. Laftah warns that "teens are increasingly adopting adult-style routines with numerous serums, toners, masks and actives," which can compromise the skin barrier.
• Lifestyle Factors: Adequate sleep and a balanced diet are crucial. High-carbohydrate diets and lack of sleep can increase cortisol levels, potentially leading to acne breakouts, according to Dr. Laftah. Dr. Kentley notes studies linking high-sugar diets, refined carbohydrates, and whey protein to acne flare-ups, while also emphasizing individual skin sensitivities.
• Resist Picking Spots: Squeezing blemishes can increase inflammation, lead to scarring, and cause discoloration. Dr. Laftah suggests using pimple patches as a way to absorb fluid from spots and prevent picking.
• Seek Professional Help: For persistent, painful cystic, or scarring acne, medical advice from a GP or dermatologist is recommended, as prescription treatments may be necessary.

Skincare for Boys

Androgens, which are more prevalent in boys, can contribute to oilier skin and more frequent breakouts. Dr. Kentley also highlights that issues like facial hair growth and shaving can cause irritation and folliculitis, a condition that can damage the skin barrier and cause inflammation.

To mitigate shaving-related irritation, Dr. Kentley offers these tips:

• Shave after showering when the skin is warm and prepared.
• Use a shaving brush to lift hairs away from the skin.
• Employ a lubricating product such as shaving foam or shower gel.
• Always shave in the direction of hair growth.

![A young woman sits in front of a mirror, surrounded by beauty products. She is wearing a headband and white T-shirt and speaks to a mobile phone which is just out of shot.]( "Social media is fuelling the trend for "flawless complexions" and multi-step "glass skin" routines")