Emerging Designers Stitch the Future of Fashion at New York Fashion Week

New York Fashion Week is showcasing a new wave of talent, with seven emerging designers bringing distinct visions and innovative approaches to the forefront. These creatives are not only shaping the future of fashion but also injecting renewed energy and diversity into the industry.

Among these rising stars is Conner Ives, a designer who, despite his London training at Central Saint Martins, has strong roots in Bedford, New York. Ives gained industry attention after creating a Met Gala dress for Adwoa Aboah in 2017, which led to a call from Rihanna. His label, launched in 2021, is known for its upcycled T-shirt dresses, fringed party frocks, and opulent coats made from reconstituted vintage materials. His "Protect the Dolls" T-shirt initiative in 2025 raised over $1.3 million for the trans community, highlighting his commitment to social causes through fashion. Ives is making his New York Fashion Week debut this September.

Lorena Pipenco, the creative force behind Pipenco Lorena, draws inspiration from her family's seamstress heritage and Romanian folklore. After studying at Parsons, she launched her brand in 2023. Pipenco's designs are characterized by vibrant colors, exaggerated proportions, and a joyful spirit, offering a counterpoint to the complexities of the modern world. Her work often features influences from Eastern European fairy tales and films, with her latest muse being the forest spirit Muma Pădurii. Her creations have been notably worn by Lauryn Hill.

Stephen Biga, the designer behind Mel Usine, blends romanticism with sensuality, taking inspiration from the medieval water nymph Mélusine. After honing his skills at established houses like Gabriela Hearst and Rodarte, Biga launched his brand in 2024. Mel Usine's collections feature dramatic poet blouses, silk taffeta coats, and intricate jacquard suits. Gracie Abrams was recently featured on the cover of Vogue wearing one of the brand's signature "chainmail" knit dresses.

Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, founder of her eponymous label, finds inspiration in her New England upbringing. Her approach to design emphasizes resourcefulness, utilizing deadstock fabrics, antique linens, and discarded materials. Whalen's work includes deconstructed apron dresses and tea-stained bloomers, reflecting a quilter's sensibility. Celebrities like Rosalía and Julia Fox have been drawn to her unique aesthetic. Her presentations have included immersive experiences, such as a birthing circle and a fashion performance with a papier-mâché dress.

Caroline Zimbalist, another Parsons alumna, explores innovative materials, including biodegradable bioplastics derived from cornstarch, seaweed, and pea powder. She began showcasing her molded creations, which she calls "vessels," at New York Fashion Week in 2024, and has since expanded into more traditional clothing lines. For her Spring 2027 collection, she incorporated her custom biomaterials into cotton and silk, creating naturalistic patterns reminiscent of butterfly wings and bark.

Amir Taghi, originally from Houston, infuses his designs with a blend of Texas flair and the rich cultural heritage of Iran, his family's homeland. Having interned at Oscar de la Renta at 17 and worked with brands like Monse and Proenza Schouler, Taghi launched his label in 2018. His designs are influenced by the expressive ways Iranian women use scarves. His Spring 2027 collection prominently features textiles derived from kilim rugs, echoing his grandfather's heritage.

Finally, Anna Osmekhina, the Ukrainian costume designer behind TTSWTRS, collaborates with tattoo artists to create optical illusion designs on nude bodysuits. Her brand, pronounced "tattoo sweaters," has been worn by celebrities like Anya Taylor-Joy and Jennifer Lopez. Osmekhina has expanded her offerings to include anatomical forms and sci-fi corsetry. For her Fall 2025 New York Fashion Week debut, she is presenting a virtual reality film that explores a future shaped by AI, promising an "Alice in Wonderland"-like experience.