Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni has seen her political approach evolve from a combative outsider to a pragmatic establishment leader, a transformation mirrored in her changing fashion sensibilities. When she first assumed office in October 2022, Meloni wore a dark suit and substantial black boots, signaling her emergence from the fringes of the country's right-wing politics. Now, as she governs with less radical policies than initially feared and approaches the milestone of becoming Italy's longest-serving postwar leader, Meloni often opts for pastel-colored suits with wide-legged trousers that conceal her high heels. This softer aesthetic, according to fashion and political experts, conveys authority without confrontation.
"She understands how important clothing is in nonverbal communication in politics," said Antonio Mancinelli, who teaches at Rome’s Costume and Fashion Academy. As Meloni enters the final year of her term, facing a rising challenge from a right-wing political rival, this evolving style highlights her moderation on certain issues.
Meloni is not unique in using wardrobe choices to project political identity. Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy has consistently worn military-style clothing since Russia's 2022 invasion, and Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum honors Indigenous textile traditions with embroidered dresses. However, for the first woman to lead Italy, her sartorial decisions carry significant weight.
"When it comes to a woman who represents a country that is famous for fashion, and it is also one of the pillars of the economy, the issue becomes much more serious," stated Italian-Haitian fashion designer Stella Jean.
Upon taking leadership of a party with post-fascist roots, Meloni was anticipated to adopt an antagonistic stance toward Europe and hold extreme foreign policy views. However, she has largely defied these expectations. While maintaining conservative, anti-migrant policies domestically, Meloni has engaged pragmatically with the European Union and become a staunch supporter of Ukraine's defense against Russia. She has also demonstrated a willingness to challenge criticism from figures like former U.S. President Donald Trump, fostering unity among European allies.
"When she was a party leader of a small right-wing party, she had a small electorate that she had to relate to," explained political analyst Riccardo Alcaro of Italy’s Institute for International Affairs. "Now she is the leader of a major EU country and has to provide an image of herself as a credible leader of a government who has ideas worth debating."
This shift is evident in her professional attire. Shortly after becoming prime minister, Meloni began wearing tailored suits in more muted colors, a look described by fashion critics as elegant and conveying both seriousness and approachability as she increased her presence on the global stage. She also lightened her hair, a choice that Michela Bonafoni, a fashion instructor at Unicollege in Florence, suggests can signify "loyalty, tenderness and gentleness," making one appear more welcoming.
Meloni's past contrasts sharply with her current image. In 1996, at age 19, she was featured by a French television station as a young activist dressed predominantly in black, defending Benito Mussolini's comments during an interview. These past statements have continued to shadow her career, prompting her to distance herself from historical extremism.
Her public image began to shift in 2008 when then-Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi appointed her youth minister. In this role, Meloni adopted more formal attire, typically dark suits paired with white shirts. By the time she won the 2022 election, Meloni had already started broadening her appeal, describing herself during her campaign as "a woman, a mother, a Christian"—a phrase that became part of a viral remix and garnered support from moderate centrists.
As prime minister, Meloni rarely appears in public in all-black suits and boots. While black is a common fashion choice for style and mourning, in Italy, it also carries historical associations with fascism. Today, Meloni predominantly wears trousers, avoids bold patterns, and favors pastel and neutral colors, often with her heels hidden by wide-leg pants.
"She cannot clash visually with the image she wants to project," Alcaro noted, pointing out the significant growth of her Brothers of Italy party from 4% in 2018 to nearly 26% in 2022. A notable moment in her public presentation was during the 2024 G7 summit in Puglia, following a strong showing in European Parliament elections. She welcomed world leaders in a pastel pink suit with palazzo pants, projecting an image of political security and comfort on the international stage. At a later G7 summit in Evian-les-Bains, France, she wore a beige suit and necktie, prompting German Chancellor Friedrich Merz to remark, "You’re wearing a tie today." Meloni responded, "Yeah, so you can consider me a fighter."