Nail technicians in the United Kingdom are now subject to restrictions on gel nail polishes containing Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), a chemical previously banned in the European Union. The ban, which took effect today, prohibits UK manufacturers from releasing new products containing TPO onto the market.

Restrictions and Timeline

Following the ban on new products, nail technicians will be unable to purchase any items containing TPO after February 14, 2027. However, they will be permitted to use existing stock they have already acquired. Retailers are also barred from selling at-home gel manicure kits that include the ingredient.

Caroline Rainsford, director of science at the Cosmetic Toiletry & Perfumery Association, stated that TPO was banned in cosmetic products due to its hazardous properties, particularly how it might behave in extreme exposure scenarios.

Health Concerns and Endocrine Disruption

The EU's decision to ban TPO was influenced by animal studies, which indicated significant fertility issues in rats fed high doses of the chemical. Experts believe TPO may pose a potential risk to humans by acting as an endocrine disruptor, interfering with the body's hormonal system.

While a monthly gel manicure is unlikely to cause significant exposure for consumers, nail technicians may face a greater risk due to prolonged handling of uncured gel products. Though direct absorption into the bloodstream is considered unlikely, the continuous contact with the chemical is a point of concern.

The endocrine system regulates critical bodily functions, including metabolism, sleep patterns, and reproduction. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals, like TPO, can mimic natural hormones, block receptors, and alter hormone production. This interference has been linked in animal studies to increased risks of diabetes, obesity, developmental problems, and certain cancers. Experts also suggest these chemicals could contribute to the rise in reproductive disorders.

Globally, cases of endomitosis, a condition where cells similar to those in the uterine lining grow elsewhere in the body, have seen a substantial increase. Similarly, the prevalence of polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a hormonal disorder affecting women, has doubled in Britain over the last two decades.

The World Health Organization declared endocrine disruptors a “global threat” in 2012, leading to the ban of several suspected chemicals by regulatory bodies worldwide. However, some experts argue that regulation is not keeping pace with scientific findings, with the UK lagging behind Europe in controlling such substances. Many popular cosmetic products, including perfumes, may contain chemicals that subtly affect the body.

To mitigate exposure to such chemicals, experts recommend avoiding products containing TPO and opting for fragranced items only if they are explicitly stated as phthalate-free. Brands like The Manucurist and Townhouse offer TPO-free polish options.