Centella asiatica, a plant historically referred to as the "miracle elixir of life," is now a significant ingredient in contemporary Korean skincare. This herb, also nicknamed "nicknamed tiger grass" because of the observation that tigers would roll in it to heal wounds, has a long-standing history of use in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine.
Its therapeutic properties have led to it also being called the "herb of longevity" due to its ability to accelerate wound healing and treat various medical conditions. Now, its gentle and soothing qualities have made it a favored component in Korean skincare regimens.
According to Dr. Amy Bandy, a board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon, centella contains several bioactive compounds demonstrating anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing properties. In addition to its four primary active compounds—madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid—it also boasts a range of beneficial ingredients, including fatty acids and antioxidants.
Dr. Olga Bachilo, a board-certified plastic surgeon and founder of Glamour Plastic Surgery and Med Spa in Houston, notes that centella acts on a cellular level by stimulating fibroblasts, which are responsible for collagen production. This cellular activity supports skin healing.
Key Skincare Benefits
The herb's most notable benefits include rapid skin repair and the reduction of inflammation. This makes it particularly effective in reducing redness associated with acne, irritation from cosmetic procedures, and sensitivity caused by harsh skincare ingredients like retinoids, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid. Centella also enhances skin hydration by helping the skin barrier retain moisture, which can be beneficial for conditions like rosacea. Bandy suggests centella for patients experiencing chronic dryness, dehydration, or sensitivity, as it improves the skin's structural integrity and prevents further moisture loss.
Post-surgery, centella's triterpenoids may help calm the inflammatory response, potentially improving scar texture and appearance over time, according to Bachilo.
The antioxidant content in centella contributes to skin health by combating free radicals, which can damage DNA and the skin's protective barrier. The plant's hydrating and plumping effects from its active compounds may also help slow the signs of aging and reduce the appearance of scars and cellulite.
Considerations for Use
Despite its benefits, caution is advised for individuals with known allergies to plants in the Apiaceae family, as cross-sensitization is possible. Those with very reactive or sensitive skin should perform a patch test before incorporating centella into their daily skincare routine. When selecting products, Bachilo recommends looking for madecassoside or asiaticoside near the beginning of the ingredient list, as their presence indicates a significant concentration of the active compound.