Keren Bartov, an aesthetician renowned in Hollywood for her work with celebrities like Beyonce, Kim Kardashian, and Sienna Miller, has shared her approach to achieving radiant skin, particularly for women over 40. Bartov, who has been described as a "skin whisperer," emphasizes a less-is-more philosophy, advocating for a simplified daily routine and discouraging the widespread use of injectables like Botox.
Bartov, 47, who has two skin clinics and over two decades of experience, stated that significant skincare transformations can be achieved without complicated rituals. She believes the key to healthy, glowing skin at any age lies in a consistent, tailored daily routine. "You can never underestimate the power of good skin," she said, noting how skin condition can impact overall well-being.
Rethinking Skincare Routines
A common mistake for women in their 40s and beyond is continuing with the same skincare products used a decade or two prior. Bartov stresses that skin changes with age, necessitating adjustments to one's routine. However, she cautions against the assumption that aging skin requires aggressive ingredients. Instead, the focus should shift from solely targeting wrinkles to maintaining healthy, resilient skin that functions optimally. Bartov recommends a maximum of four to six products, including a gentle cleanser, a quality moisturizer, a broad-spectrum sunscreen, and one targeted serum. She suggests limiting the routine to prevent overwhelming the skin, which she believes leads to the most significant improvements.
Alternatives to Injectables
Bartov does not offer injectables in her clinics and advises against women rushing to Botox after 40. She believes that expression lines are a natural part of identity and that healthy, firm, and radiant skin can make these lines appear different. Her goal is to help skin look its best rather than to erase years or alter facial features. Her treatments combine technologies aimed at stimulating circulation, lymphatic drainage, improving tissue oxygenation, and boosting collagen production, all while restoring hydration and proper skin function.
The Importance of Product Application and Sun Protection
Bartov highlights the significance of the order in which skincare products are applied, stating that it can be as crucial as the products themselves. She advises applying products from thinnest to thickest consistency, allowing each layer to absorb fully before the next. The recommended sequence is cleanser, toner, serum, eye cream (if used), moisturizer, and finally, SPF. A minimum of 30 seconds between applications is suggested. Skipping daily SPF is a non-negotiable mistake, according to Bartov. She emphasizes using a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning, regardless of weather, and reapplying it hourly in warm conditions. She recommends accessible options like La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF50+ and Avene Very High Protection SPF50+, stressing that consistent daily use is paramount. Application should extend to all exposed areas, including the neck, ears, and the backs of hands.
Core Skincare Practices
Cleansing twice daily is presented as the foundation of any skincare routine. Bartov advocates for a pH-balanced cleanser suitable for one's skin type, noting that a cleanser causing tightness is inappropriate. Evening cleansing is essential for removing makeup and SPF. She suggests micellar water or a double cleanse method. Gentle massage with fingertips is preferred over abrasive cloths or devices to protect the skin barrier. Using lukewarm or cold water is recommended over hot water, which can strip the skin of moisture.
Bartov also advises investing in products that remain on the skin the longest, such as serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens, as these continue to work over time. She also includes everyday essentials like petroleum jelly for dry patches and nourishing hand cream, highlighting the often-overlooked hands as storytellers of age. While acknowledging the importance of facial care, she points out that hands also require attention, mentioning L’Occitane Shea Butter Hand Cream and Aesop Resurrection Aromatique Hand Wash as favorites.
Intelligent Formulations Over 'Hero Ingredients'
Instead of focusing on a single "hero ingredient," Bartov advocates for intelligent formulations where ingredients work synergistically. She points to her own Booster Peel & Glow Serum, a blend of gentle acids, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and ferulic acid, as an example of a product designed for gentle exfoliation, smoothing, and brightening without irritation. This type of product can be beneficial post-summer for addressing dullness, pores, lines, and dark spots. The effectiveness of a product, she notes, depends on the quality of its formulation and its suitability for an individual's skin at a given time, rather than its price point.
As people age, natural declines in elastin, collagen, and hydration occur, along with slower cell turnover. Bartov regularly uses ingredients like vitamin C for antioxidant protection, peptides to signal collagen and elastin production, and ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier. She advises looking for products with clinical studies and reviews from users with similar skin types.
Protecting the Skin Barrier
Bartov emphasizes the skin barrier's crucial role, describing it as a strong yet supple defense. Signs of a damaged barrier include persistent dryness, reactions to previously tolerated products, and tightness. Factors contributing to barrier damage include harsh weather, over-cleansing, excessive exfoliation, and stress. When treating clients, Bartov prioritizes barrier health as the foundation for addressing concerns like pigmentation, acne, or redness.
Avoiding Social Media Trends
Bartov cautions against building skincare routines based on social media trends and algorithms, noting that online recommendations may not be suitable for individual skin needs. She warns against viral products, mixing incompatible ingredients, or using high-strength actives simply due to online popularity. Combining certain ingredients, such as vitamin C and retinol in the same application, can lead to irritation. She advocates for "smarter skincare" over stronger skincare, emphasizing that routines should not be dictated by fleeting trends.