The newly opened Vesper restaurant in London's Exmouth Market, spearheaded by chef Jackson Boxer, is garnering attention for its bold and playful approach to European cuisine. Food critic Tom Parker Bowles described the menu as captivating, stating it "makes the heart pump harder" with a compelling array of dishes.
The restaurant's offerings range from fried pizzette and crab-fat rice to coal-fired roast chicken and Swaledale Barnsley chops. Boxer's menu is characterized by its broadly European influences, executed with a playful spirit rather than strict adherence to authenticity, prioritizing pleasure in dining.
Inside, Vesper is designed for extended stays, featuring a light and utilitarian aesthetic reminiscent of St John restaurant, with whitewashed walls and a zinc-clad bar. Intricate details, such as hand-carved limestone panels, add to the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere. The dining experience begins with expertly crafted martinis, setting the stage for the culinary journey.
Among the standout dishes highlighted are spring onion pancakes topped with raw tuna, olive, and Cantabrian anchovy, described as intensely flavored, one-bite sensations. The fried potato pizzette, with its sweet, doughnut-like dough, is complemented by stracciatella, mortadella, and a sharp pineapple mostarda.
Palourde clams are presented in a classic Iberian combination with coco beans, but are given a distinctly English twist with a cider-scented broth. Pristine Atlantic prawns, grilled to perfection, are seasoned with Eastern influences, including fenugreek and black lime, with the prawn heads offering a rich, flavorful finale.
A tomato and peach salad features ripe, seasonal fruit, though Parker Bowles noted that the pistachio cream, while enjoyed by his dining companions, felt unnecessary when the fruit itself was so exceptional. The herb-fed chicken, sourced from a favored farm, is lauded for its charred skin and succulent flesh, enhanced by an acidic dressing.
A particular highlight is the crab-fat rice, enriched with brown crab meat, which Parker Bowles describes as a "joyous, sun-baked Balearic blast of pure crustacean bosk," offering a satisfying bite and standing as a complete course in itself.
While puddings are available, the reviewer noted leaving the meal content and replete. Parker Bowles concludes that Boxer, already recognized as a talented chef, has now firmly established himself as a serious restaurateur. The estimated cost per head is around £50.