Tenerife is undergoing a transformation, shedding its reputation as a budget holiday spot for a more upscale image, characterized by luxury hotels, fine dining, and cultural events. The island's historic Gran Hotel Taoro, a 1927 haunt of Dame Agatha Christie, has reopened after a £44 million restoration, reclaiming its status as a premier luxury establishment. Originally opened in 1890, the hotel was a symbol of travel's golden age, attracting European royalty and aristocracy.

The refurbished Gran Hotel Taoro now boasts a high-quality spa, a minimalist design, and two Michelin-starred restaurants: Oka by Ricardo Sanz, offering Japanese-Mediterranean cuisine, and Lava by Erlantz Gorostiza, focusing on local specialties. The hotel also plans to honor Christie's memory with a reading room dedicated to her works.

Another establishment contributing to Tenerife's refined image is the Hotel Botanico on the north coast, which has hosted notable guests including Bill Clinton and Michael Jackson. This hotel is also home to a renowned classical music festival featuring nightly chamber concerts.

Beyond its high-end accommodations, Tenerife's northern hinterland offers a rich cultural and scenic experience. The historic town of Icod de los Vinos, known for its colonial architecture and views of Mount Teide, stands in contrast to the southern coast's more developed tourist areas. The town features grand 16th-century buildings, narrow cobbled streets, St. Mark's Church, and a famous 800-year-old dragon tree.

La Orotava showcases traditional manorial houses with stone coats of arms and elaborately carved wooden balconies, reflecting the island's noble Spanish past. Churches like the Iglesia de la Concepcion, with its unique Baroque and volcanic stone design, are prominent features. San Cristobal de La Laguna, Tenerife's first capital and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, served as a model for colonial cities in South America and features Moorish-influenced architecture and balconied courtyards.

Exploring the mountainous interior reveals pine forests and dramatic views above the cloud layer surrounding Mount Teide. Remote villages like Masca, perched precariously on a bluff amid canyons and crags, offer stunning vistas. Dining experiences range from traditional guachinches serving local dishes like goat's cheese and octopus with 'black' potatoes to the sophisticated offerings at hotels like the Gran Hotel Taoro.