London's dining scene has welcomed Oudh 1722, a new restaurant from Aktar Islam, the chef proprietor of the two-Michelin-starred Opheem in Birmingham. Food critic Tom Parker Bowles described the experience as "the most spectacular Indian food I've eaten in years," highlighting the restaurant's focus on Awadhi cuisine, the culinary tradition of Lucknow.
Awadhi food, known for its rich and intricate spicing, is credited as the origin of dishes like korma, biryani, and a wide variety of kebabs. The name "1722" refers to the region's independence from the Mughal Empire, a period of significant culinary development.
Parker Bowles detailed a series of dishes that impressed him during his visit. The starter of "bheja," described as spiced, gently scrambled lamb's brain served with saffron-scented flatbreads, was noted for its "soft, nuanced majesty." Another starter, "shorba," featured raw lamb in a sharp broth with morel mushrooms and broad beans.
Kebabs included "gilawat," a tender lamb patty served with raw onion and flatbread, and "boti," chunks of slow-marinated ex-dairy beef. Prawn dishes featured "lasooni jinga," a large prawn bathed in a buttery, garlic-heavy sauce, with small pieces of raw mango providing acidity. Among the other notable dishes were "malai murgh," a chicken leg in a creamy cardamom and saffron sauce, and a goat curry praised for its "astonishing depth."
The review singled out "mutanjam dum biriyani" as a potential crowning glory, a mound of seasoned rice with sweet carrots and oxtail. Even the "Dal Bukhara" was noted for its liberal use of cream and butter. Parker Bowles concluded that while each dish was distinct, they were all unified by skillful spicing, recommending diners come hungry and prepare for leftovers.
Oudh 1722 is located at 66 Union Street, London SE1. The estimated cost per person is around £75.