The new A24 film "Tony" presents a fictionalized coming-of-age story inspired by the early life of the late chef and author Anthony Bourdain, deliberately diverging from strict biographical accuracy to capture a specific period and feel.
The movie, directed by Matt Johnson, adapts the first two chapters of Bourdain's 2000 bestseller "Kitchen Confidential." Rather than a direct retelling of Bourdain's life, "Tony" focuses on a college student named Tony (Dominic Sessa) who, after a failed fellowship pitch, impulsively travels to Provincetown, Massachusetts, for the summer. There, he takes a job in a seafood shack under a talented chef, portrayed by Antonio Banderas. This narrative arc, set in 1975, distills incidents and anecdotes from Bourdain's early writings into a more conventional summer-long story.
Director Johnson, known for films like "Blackberry," aims to convey the essence of Bourdain's early experiences and personal transformation during that Cape Cod summer. The film largely avoids signaling any precocious genius or inherent specialness in its protagonist, instead highlighting his unformed nature and unrefined ambitions. Tony's early affectations, such as his use of large words and half-hearted brainstorming, are depicted as signs of his distance from fulfilling his potential.
While the film draws from Bourdain's memoir, moments that directly reference his iconic writings, like the line about raw oysters tasting like the future, are presented as landing with less impact due to Tony's unformed character. The character played by Banderas, a composite chef who serves as an unexpected mentor, is skillfully integrated, anchoring the kitchen scenes with his charisma. The movie's loose adherence to Bourdain's real life is evident in how it prioritizes the film's narrative over strict biographical detail, even down to characters like Nancy (Emilia Jones), whose role is minimized as the story progresses and she is acknowledged as not being part of Tony's future.
"Tony" is described as a fleet, entertaining, and frequently funny film, centered on Sessa's boldly unlikable yet empathetic performance. The movie's approach suggests that sometimes, the most effective way for a film based on a true story to succeed is by allowing itself to depart from its origins.