A new restaurant in London's West End, Khao-Sōi-I, is dedicating its menu to the northern Thai curry noodle soup known as khao soi. The establishment aims to bring this regional classic, traditionally found in street carts and stalls in Thailand and southern China, to a more upscale dining environment.
Khao soi, described as both warming and thrilling, features a rich and complex broth. Ingredients contributing to its layered flavor profile include kaffir lime, galangal, turmeric, cumin, cardamom, and allspice, balanced with the creaminess of coconut milk. The soup is typically served with fresh egg noodles and topped with deep-fried noodles for added texture.
At Khao-Sōi-I, the broth is characterized as masterful and murky, with a chili heat that builds subtly. Diners can expect tender chunks of slow-cooked beef, alongside Yunnanese-style pickled greens, shallots, coriander, and a lime wedge. The restaurant allows patrons to customize their bowls, a characteristic the critic notes as integral to the dish.
While the classic beef version is recommended, the menu also offers variations with premium ingredients like Wagyu, scallops, and langoustines. The restaurant's ambiance is described as more refined than a typical Chiang Mai eatery, featuring elegant ceramics and contemporary tableware.
Khao-Sōi-I is located just off Oxford Street. The price for a bowl of khao soi is approximately £26, a cost justified by the dish's intricate preparation and the overall dining experience, which offers a "beautiful, bracing and utterly beguiling taste of north Thailand."