The San Fermín festival in Pamplona, Spain, has kicked off its annual nine-day run, coinciding with the 100th anniversary of Ernest Hemingway’s seminal novel, “The Sun Also Rises.” The 1926 book brought international fame to the festival and popularized the term “lost generation” to describe expatriate writers of the early 20th century. The novel, known in Spanish as “Fiesta,” captivated readers with its depiction of American and British bohemians seeking meaning through travel, alcohol, and romantic pursuits.
Bill Hillmann, an American who has been gored three times while participating in the bull runs, said Hemingway’s vivid descriptions inspired him to become a writer and a bull runner. Hillmann, now 44, has participated in hundreds of bull runs since first reading the novel at age 19. His experience led him to earn a doctorate in English and to teach “The Sun Also Rises” at East-West University in Chicago.
Americans continue to be the largest group of foreigners participating in the San Fermín festival’s bull runs. In 2022, Americans comprised 16% of bull runners, four times the number from neighboring France, according to Pamplona’s City Hall. Dallas-based tour operator Bruce Anderson, whose company “Running Of The Bulls” brings thousands of Americans to the festival annually, noted that Hemingway’s novel transformed the event into a bucket-list destination. This year, his company is guiding 1,400 people, with over two-thirds from the U.S.
Hemingway’s Enduring Legacy in Pamplona
Hemingway's presence is deeply embedded in Pamplona's landscape. Cafes frequented by the author, like the art deco Café Iruña, feature Hemingway memorabilia, including a life-size statue of him at the bar. Hotels where he stayed, such as the Perla Hotel, preserve his suites with original furnishings and display copies of “The Sun Also Rises.” A banner honoring the novel and quoting Hemingway's description of the festival’s explosive start hangs outside the Pamplona bull ring, which also features a statue of the writer.
Fernando Hualde, a former receptionist at the Perla Hotel, stated that Hemingway significantly elevated Pamplona’s global profile. However, Hemingway's legacy in the city is not without its complexities. While celebrated for his literary contributions, his hyper-masculine public persona and his portrayal of bullfighting have drawn criticism from feminist perspectives and animal rights activists. Animal welfare activist Brook Spurling has noted that themes Hemingway explored, such as hunting and war, are viewed differently by contemporary society.
Some Pamplona residents also attribute the challenges of overtourism to Hemingway's early promotion of the festival. With a population of 200,000, Pamplona hosts over a million visitors during the festival, many of whom, particularly younger attendees, emulate Hemingway's documented penchant for excessive drinking. This has led to local sentiments, like a bar sign humorously declaring “Hemingway was not here,” reflecting a desire to distance from certain aspects of his association with the festival.
Safety and Modern Interpretations
Literary professor Gabriel Insausti of the University of Navarra suggests that Hemingway has become synonymous with the San Fermín festival, sometimes overshadowing the novel itself. Hillmann echoed concerns about safety, attributing increased danger to the high number of inexperienced foreign runners. He recounted near-fatal experiences from gorings in 2014 and 2017, emphasizing the risks involved when novice participants make critical errors.
Despite the dangers, participants like Hillmann maintain a deep respect for the art of bull running. Hemingway's granddaughter, actress Mariel Hemingway, reflects on her grandfather's enduring appeal, citing the timeless nature of themes like identity, love, and purpose. She believes his work captures essential aspects of the human experience that will continue to resonate.