A female solo traveler recounts her first trip to Morocco, where locals hurled insults and followed her in the streets. Armed with modest clothing and a basic level of Arabic, she arrived confident in Morocco’s hospitality, cuisine and vibrant markets, but she still encountered persistent attention as a tourist in places like the Marrakech medina.

She tried various tactics to deter attention. Ignoring the attention sometimes reduced low-level street haggling, but shouting back in Arabic often intensified the reaction. In Chefchaouen, a shop owner who had nagged her to buy a scarf shifted to questions about her background and, eventually, asked if she would marry him. Similar propositions arose on a train between Tangier and Asilah and on a beach in Taghazout. While none of these moments turned sour, the constant attention served as a reminder that travel decisions require patience and tact.

Despite these moments, the traveler found Morocco’s hospitality, landscapes and food memorable. An elderly Moroccan woman on a train to Asilah took her under her wing and offered snacks, underscoring the warmth that can appear even in busy travel routes. The geography ranged from desert plains to lush green mountains within a single bus ride, and the cuisine—couscous and tagine—lived up to expectations, with the traveler even buying a tagine as a memento. Landmarks like the Hassan Tower in Rabat and the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca highlighted Morocco’s historic sites amid the modern rail and road networks.

To stay safe and enjoy the experience, the traveler recommends choosing calmer destinations and transport options. Calmer cities such as Rabat, Tetouan and Taghazout often offer markets you can explore at a slower pace. Public transport can be a reliable option: CTM intercity buses and trains between major cities are typically full of families and feel safe, and the high-speed rail between Rabat and Tangier is comfortable and modern. Taxis with meters help prevent inflated fares, and private drivers or rental cars can suit travelers seeking more control. For accommodations, the traveler suggests booking single-sex rooms when possible to avoid sharing with unrelated roommates, and bringing a padlock for lockers since some hostels do not provide them. Dressing modestly—long skirts or trousers and covering shoulders and chest—can reduce unwanted attention, especially around religious sites and beaches.

Overall, she says the trip’s highs—the scenery, hospitality and food—outweighed the low points, and she intends to return to Morocco.