Tom Parker Bowles, writing in the Daily Mail, praised Angela Hartnett’s new Cafe Murano in Marylebone as the strongest addition yet to her expanding London restaurant group, highlighting a "magnificent" tomato risotto and a fennel-sausage rigatoni that prompted a double order.
In a review published 13 September 2025, Parker Bowles said the Dorset Street site, which has been open only a couple of weeks, already felt "part of the local fabric." He described the dining room as warmer and more personal than other Cafe Murano locations, noting a portrait of Hartnett’s two Jack Russell dogs, framed books and pieces of kitchen kit as part of the decor, alongside Murano glass and subdued lighting.
Parker Bowles reported a mostly positive experience with the menu. He praised the salume and mortadella served with fried gnocchi, although he noted the gnocchi arrived cold. He described lamb-and-pea arancini as "molten mouthfuls of crisp-coated delight" and called the tomato risotto "magnificent," citing perfectly textured grains of rice enlivened by ripe tomatoes, basil and anchovies. John Dory fillets were served with pappa al pomodoro, the reviewer said, producing a "tomato-stained" comfort dish.
The rigatoni, made with a fennel sausage specially prepared for the restaurant, drew particular praise. Parker Bowles wrote that the pasta was so good he ordered a second large plate. He also complimented the wine list and service, saying the room’s atmosphere matched the strength of the food.
Cafe Murano Marylebone is the fourth London site in Hartnett’s group, joining branches in St James’s, Covent Garden and Bermondsey. Parker Bowles, who identified Hartnett’s Murano flagship as Michelin‑starred, said he had long enjoyed the St James’s outpost and considered the new Dorset Street venue the best yet. He noted mains start from about £26.
The review offers a close read of the new venue’s strengths and a single culinary criticism, leaving it described by the critic as an "instant neighbourhood star" in Marylebone. Cafe Murano Marylebone is located at 52–55 Dorset Street, London W1; the restaurant’s website lists bookings and menus.