Cherie Denham, a chef dedicated to showcasing Irish cuisine, is gaining international recognition for her cookbook, "The Irish Kitchen." The book, which has received praise from notable figures like Nigella Lawson, aims to elevate Irish food by highlighting its rich traditions and the quality of its ingredients.
Lawson described "The Irish Kitchen" as "a love letter to Ireland, respectful of tradition but not hidebound by it," and noted that every recipe in the book inspired her to cook. This positive reception follows the success of Denham's previous book, "The Irish Bakery," which won Cookbook of the Year at the Irish Food Writers' Awards and was shortlisted for a prestigious Fortnum & Mason prize.
"The Irish Kitchen" features nearly 100 meticulously tested recipes, ranging from time-honored classics such as Irish stew, soda bread, and colcannon, to more contemporary dishes that utilize Ireland's natural bounty. Shot on location across the island, the cookbook also includes essays on traditional practices like turfcutting and oyster farming, offering a comprehensive portrait of the country.
Denham's culinary journey is deeply rooted in her upbringing in County Armagh and County Tyrone. She recalls the simple yet profound cooking of her grandmothers, who used fresh ingredients from their gardens and hedgerows, emphasizing a no-waste philosophy. Her Auntie Evelyn, who introduced her to exotic ingredients like dates and pomegranates during travels, also played a significant role in sparking Denham's culinary curiosity.
"The kitchen has always been the heart of an Irish home," Denham stated, reflecting on the inspiration behind her work. "The place where yarns are told, where the best local ingredients become something to share with the people you love. That’s what we wanted to capture."
Her mother, Esther, a nursing sister during the Troubles, instilled a strong sense of self-reliance in her daughters. "No matter what you do with your lives, you’re going to do something that means if anything ever happened to your husband, you can feed yourselves and your families," Esther advised her daughters.
Denham pursued her passion for food despite early challenges, working as a medical secretary to save for culinary school fees. She later attended Leith's School of Food and Wine, eventually becoming a demonstration assistant and teacher. Her career also included private cheffing, catering, and cooking for notable figures like John Mortimer.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, which led to the closure of her teaching and demonstration kitchen and the loss of her father, Denham began collaborating with photographer Andrew Montgomery. Their partnership resulted in "The Irish Kitchen" and "The Irish Bakery."
Denham continues to be inspired by the desire for simple, wholesome food, noting a public shift towards basic ingredients. "People want to get back to basics. To keep their families healthy. And it’s not complicated," she explained. "Flour, buttermilk, salt and bicarbonate of soda. That’s a soda bread. Build everything else from there."
Her commitment to traditional methods extends to her daily life, where she bakes sourdough, makes her own butter, and utilizes ingredients fully, viewing thrift as a defense against overconsumption. Her dedication to these practices has influenced her three sons, who have learned to cook and appreciate home-prepared meals.
Denham's advocacy for Irish cuisine is evident in her recommended dishes for newcomers: soda farls, potato bread, boiled bacon with parsley sauce and cabbage, colcannon, and Guinness wheaten bread. For her, the essence of cooking lies in its ability to connect people, a sentiment she describes as a "love language"—simple, quiet, and deeply meaningful.
"The Irish Kitchen" by Cherie Denham and Andrew Montgomery is published by Montgomery Press.