Brooches are experiencing a significant revival, transitioning from a seemingly antiquated accessory to a must-have item for the current season. This resurgence is evident on high-fashion runways, with brands like Chanel, Valentino, Simone Rocha, and Erdem featuring brooches to adorn lapels and necklines. The trend has also crossed into menswear, with celebrities such as Omar Apollo and Colman Domingo seen sporting elaborate brooches at events like the Oscars.
Global sales of brooches have surged by 200% in the past year, underscoring their return to popularity. Google searches for brooches have also seen a notable increase, with 2.4 million searches recorded in the last year.
Historically, brooches have been worn for millennia, with origins tracing back to around 3,000 BC when they functioned as functional fasteners for cloaks and blankets. By the Tudor period, brooches, like other forms of jewelry, became indicators of social status and wealth, with sumptuary laws dictating who could wear precious metals and gemstones. Wealthy merchants were restricted to silver, while only the highest ranks could adorn themselves with gold, diamonds, and pearls.
During the 18th century, young men of the upper classes often purchased brooches during their European Grand Tours, using these small, jeweled souvenirs to subtly display their sophistication and social standing. For elite women of the same era, exquisite flower-spray brooches and cameos with classical motifs were popular. The 19th century saw trends influenced by activities like butterfly collecting, leading to designs featuring insects, and later, during the Belle Époque from around 1870, brooches were often attached to black velvet chokers.
Victorian-era brooches were rich in symbolism, with designs like buckled belts signifying strong connections between individuals, and swallows or ivy leaves representing fidelity. Mourning brooches frequently incorporated a lock of hair from a deceased loved one, encircled by stones such as jet and pearls to symbolize loss.
The advent of platinum use in jewelry from the 1880s, enabled by new heat technology, allowed for the creation of more magnificent and secure settings, leading to spectacular diamond sprays, jeweled wreaths, and stars. The late Queen Elizabeth II was often seen wearing magnificent diamond bow brooches from this period, highlighting the historical association of brooches with royalty.
Following World War I, jewelry trends shifted towards less ostentatious and more playful styles. This included a revival of butterfly brooches, which reappeared in the 1960s and 70s, often worn in multiples. The 1930s saw a move towards more streamlined jewelry, with diamond clips becoming a coveted item. These popular Art Deco pieces often featured a mechanism allowing them to separate into two clips, suitable for wearing on lapels, gown straps, or even in the hair.
Today, whether vintage or contemporary, the brooch has re-established itself as a significant fashion accessory, offering a way to personalize and enhance any look.