The streets of Buenos Aires are alive with a fervent passion for football as Argentina advances in the World Cup, with the upcoming semi-final against England stirring a complex mix of national pride, historical memory, and adoration for football icons.
A 35-meter mural of Lionel Messi dominates Avenida Belgrano, a prominent symbol of the nation's current footballing hero. Nearby, a tribute outside the Ministry of Defence commemorates those lost in the Falklands War, a conflict Argentina refers to as the Malvinas War. The inscription, ‘Malvinas nos une,’ underscores a national unity forged, in part, by this historical event.
While some office workers offer diplomatic views on the match, acknowledging England's discipline but expressing confidence in Argentina's greatest player, the sentiment shifts in the vibrant La Boca district, historically associated with football legend Diego Maradona.
In cafes dedicated to Maradona, the Malvinas connection is more pronounced. "It's important for Argentina to win because of the Malvinas," said Milagros, a cafe worker. She described the lingering anger and pain associated with the war, noting it is a subject taught in schools and remembered by the populace. A popular song, referencing Maradona, the Malvinas, and Messi's "last dance," is widely sung, reflecting the emotional weight of the game.
Argentina's path to the semi-finals has been described as arduous, with the newspaper La Prensa highlighting "Tiredness, another rival to overcome." Late victories have led to stressful viewing experiences for locals.
Football's pervasive presence is evident throughout the city, with miniature monuments of Messi, Maradona, and even the Pope lining the streets. Merchandise, from chocolate bars to pizza, features Argentina's blue and white colors and images of Messi. A Maradona lookalike offered photographs for a fee, stating that while the team might be down, "God is on their side."
Store owners in areas like Caminito note Messi's immense popularity, comparing it to Maradona's but suggesting Maradona is more deeply "loved." "Maradona inhaled a lot of s*** and lived a wild life. He was a genius but he was a rebellious guy," one store worker commented. He contrasted this with Messi, describing him as a "very decent man" more akin to Pelé, free of scandal. The worker expressed a hope that "history comes back this week," referencing Maradona's "hand of God" moment in 1986 and emphasizing the desire for Messi to win his final World Cup.
Hundreds of thousands are expected to gather in Buenos Aires to watch the match, undeterred by the winter chill, with many feeling a sense of unresolved historical scores to settle.