France has begun implementing new fees on "ultra-fast fashion" items, a move aimed at curbing the sale of inexpensive clothing by e-commerce platforms. The levy, which took effect Tuesday, follows a law passed in June designed to regulate companies such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress, which have been criticized by French officials for contributing to a surge in the production and consumption of cheap apparel.
The French government stated that the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy are well-documented. The new legislation defines ultra-fast fashion based on two criteria: the volume of clothing a company places on the market and the cost of garment repair relative to the purchase price.
Under the system, the per-item fee will be determined by a scale based on how each product scores against these standards. For 2026, the fees range from €0.50 for underwear to €2 for T-shirts, €9 for jeans, and €12 for jackets. By 2030, these charges could escalate to as much as €19.50 per item, though the fee will be capped at 50% of the product's pre-tax price. Notably, the legislation reportedly will not apply to retailers like H&M or Zara, leading to some commentary that the measures may spare European companies.
China's Ministry of Commerce has described the French law as discriminatory and a trade barrier, suggesting it may contravene World Trade Organization principles.