London Fashion Week, commencing Thursday, will feature prominent British brands emphasizing their heritage and contemporary appeal. However, the event unfolds against a backdrop of economic headwinds affecting both the luxury goods sector and the high street.
Among the established names showcasing designs are Barbour, Burberry, Alexander McQueen, and Mulberry. These brands aim to highlight their blend of British tradition and modern style.
Marks & Spencer, a long-standing high street retailer that entered the clothing market a century ago and currently leads YouGov's style credibility polls, is also set to host its inaugural London Fashion womenswear and menswear show. The event will take place at the Design Museum in Kensington on Friday, with attendees able to purchase items from 12:30 p.m. via the website or in major stores. A livestreamed video at 6:30 p.m. will allow wider access. This adoption of a 'see-now, buy-now' format, a strategy previously employed by Burberry, indicates M&S's confidence in shedding its outdated image.
Barbour, a 132-year-old family-owned company known for its waxed jackets with tartan linings and sold in 55 countries, will present its collection at the Saatchi Gallery on Thursday. The brand's Bedale and Beaufort jackets continue to be manufactured at its South Shields factory.
The Alexander McQueen show on Saturday will be closely watched by fashion industry observers and luxury goods analysts. The fashion house, founded by the late Alexander McQueen, is known for dressing Catherine, Princess of Wales, for formal events. Its ownership by the French luxury conglomerate Kering, which also owns Gucci, is of particular interest to the financial markets. Kering's shares have experienced a significant decline this year and over the past five years, reflecting broader challenges in the luxury market, including a slowdown in Chinese consumer spending, increased costs, and geopolitical instability.
In contrast, shares in Mulberry, a luxury handbag company based in Somerset, have seen substantial growth, increasing by 165 percent since January. This surge is attributed to a return to sales growth driven by the brand's renewed focus on its artisanal origins.
Mike Ashley, founder of Frasers, may be in attendance at Mulberry's presentation on Saturday. Frasers holds a 37 percent stake in Mulberry, and a previous takeover bid by Ashley in 2024 was unsuccessful. Ashley is reportedly looking to expand his luxury holdings, having recently acquired the Knightsbridge store Harvey Nichols.
Burberry, founded in 1856, will conclude London Fashion Week on Monday, September 21. The company's 19 percent share price drop this year highlights the need for it to reassert its appeal to younger, aspirational consumers. While Burberry has been successful in regaining this demographic, overall market sentiment remains subdued. Analysts will be looking for designs that resonate with American consumers across age groups. Demand for Burberry's classic trench coats and its Cotswold bag, items designed to embody Britishness, has been bolstered by gains in the U.S. market driven by artificial intelligence stocks.