Rugby League: A Unifying Force in Papua New Guinea

Rugby league is more than just a sport in Papua New Guinea; it is a powerful symbol of national unity and a source of hope in a country grappling with tribal divisions and a multitude of languages. The passion for the game is so intense that when the national team, the Kumuls, plays, a 15,000-strong crowd can sound like twice its number, creating an atmosphere so loud that players on the field struggle to hear each other.

This fervent devotion will be on full display as Papua New Guinea co-hosts the Rugby League World Cup alongside Australia and New Zealand, with the capital city, Port Moresby, set to host four matches. "Back home when we play in front of our own fans, just to see the fans, the crowd get behind us, singing the national anthem... it makes me cry every time," said Edwin Ipape, a player for the Kumuls. The emotional connection fans have with the team is palpable, with children often running alongside the team bus, eager for a glimpse of their heroes.

The sport's roots in Papua New Guinea were planted in the 1930s by Australian miners, and it quickly took hold due to its ferocious physicality, which resonated with a population long accustomed to tribal conflict. This deep-seated connection means that the people of Papua New Guinea are among the most knowledgeable and passionate rugby league fans globally, rivaled only by the Cook Islands in their national devotion to the sport.

While the passion can sometimes spill over into violence, authorities are working to curb such incidents, which in the past have necessitated the use of tear gas to control crowds. However, rugby league generally serves as a unifying force, bringing villages together around television sets to watch matches, whether from the National Rugby League (NRL) or the Super League.

The dream of playing for the Kumuls, or the women's national team, the Orchids, begins with humble beginnings. Youngsters fashion makeshift balls out of any available materials to play on scarce patches of land. "If you're lucky enough, you play with a rugby league ball," Ipape recalled of his childhood in Mount Hagen. "Otherwise, you play with containers... whatever we can get our hands on, we may pretend that it was our rugby ball."

For players like Ipape, rugby league has been life-transforming, instilling discipline and offering a chance to travel the world. He now plays in the Super League for Leigh Leopards. The pathway to professional leagues often starts with village and provincial teams, then the PNG Hunters in Australia's Queensland Cup, and potentially offers a ticket to the NRL, as it did for former Melbourne Storm centre Justin Olam, or Super League.

Looking ahead, an NRL team, the PNG Chiefs, is set to be based on the island from 2028, further solidifying the sport's future and providing more opportunities for local talent. While the team has recruited high-profile players, Papuan players are also being sought to strengthen the squad.

The women's game has also seen significant growth, notably chronicled in the documentary "Power Meri," which followed the Orchids to their debut World Cup in 2017. Elsie Albert, a prop for the Orchids and the Parramatta Eels, has emerged as PNG's first female superstar, challenging traditional gender roles. "Women were supposed to stay at home and do household chores, so when this great game came over [for women], it was seen as a threat to the culture," Albert said. However, a historic 20-16 victory over England in 2019 marked a turning point, demonstrating women's capabilities and advocating for change.

The influence of Papua New Guinean rugby league extends to the Championship club London Broncos, where head coach Jason Demetriou has recruited several Papuan players, including Championship player of the year Gairo Voro. These players were instrumental in the Broncos achieving a treble in their recent season, and several, including Voro, have already been signed by the future PNG Chiefs NRL team.

Visiting teams often find the passionate reception in Papua New Guinea a unique experience. "We actually needed a lift to go to one of these shopping centres, so we just hitchhiked. We got this random guy to pick us up and he couldn't believe it. He had two Kumuls in his back seat and he was freaking out," recalled Leigh Horne, a Papuan hooker. This warm reception highlights the profound connection between the people and the sport.

As the Rugby League World Cup unfolds, the electrifying atmosphere at Santos National Stadium, even in intense heat, with fans singing and dancing, underscores the sport's enduring appeal. The passion of these supporters ensures that rugby league will continue to be a source of pride and unity for Papua New Guinea for years to come.