Couples Return to Mykonos After 35 Years, Find Island Transformed

A reunion trip to the Greek island of Mykonos after 35 years revealed a dramatic transformation, with the once-laid-back destination now a bustling, expensive party island. However, the travelers managed to find pockets of the island that retained their original charm and affordability.

In 1991, the couples arrived in Mykonos with minimal plans, seeking affordable rooms advertised by locals upon landing. This year, the experience was vastly different. Flights now land at a modern airport terminal, and no one offers rooms upon arrival. Accommodation in Mykonos Town was secured through Airbnb, at double the expected cost. The island's landscape has shifted, with traditional bakeries replaced by designer boutiques, cocktail bars, and high-end restaurants. A sunset drink in Little Venice cost 15 euros, a significant price increase from their previous visit.

Seeking to escape the tourist crowds, the group rented quad bikes and ventured north to Fokos beach. There, they found the Fokos Taverna, a sole establishment where life appeared unchanged since their last visit. Lunch of grilled octopus, tzatziki, and Greek salad cost only £7 per person. This experience offered a glimpse of the island's past tranquility.

Exploring Quieter Islands

Deciding that finding budget-friendly accommodation on Mykonos would be challenging, the couples booked their next stays on the quieter island of Milos. A three-hour ferry ride brought them to Adamas, where they rented a 4x4 vehicle to explore Milos's numerous beaches. In the fishing hamlet of Pollonia, their base for four days, they discovered diverse landscapes, from the wind-sculpted Sarakiniko to the fishermen’s huts at Firopotamos. Lunch at Restaurant Pelagos on Paleochori beach included taramasalata and dolmades.

Their journey continued to Sifnos, an island known for its gastronomy and potteries. Here, they stayed in an apartment near Platis Gialos beach. Dining at To Steki taverna, they enjoyed local specialties like mastelo (slow-cooked lamb). Daytime activities included walking to the 17th-century monastery of Moni Chrysopigi and relaxing on Faros beach. The capital, Apollonia, featured winding white-washed lanes, while Kastro offered panoramic views.

Despite exceeding their accommodation budget on Mykonos, the overall trip was not prohibitively expensive. The travelers concluded that the essential spirit of the Cyclades, particularly on its less-trafficked beaches and in family-owned tavernas, still endures.