The booming global wellness industry, worth an estimated £3.5 billion annually in the UK alone, faces increasing scrutiny over the environmental and ethical impacts of its popular ingredients. While consumers focus on promised health and beauty benefits, complex supply chains for products like collagen, krill oil, bee venom, and donkey-derived ejiao stretch across the globe, raising concerns for conservationists and animal welfare groups.
Controversial Ingredients and Their Origins
Ejiao, a gelatinous substance made from boiling donkey hides, is marketed as a beauty booster, anemia remedy, and longevity tonic. Despite warnings from the UK Food Standards Agency against its import, ejiao products are available from third-party sellers on UK online platforms. Experts, including Dr. Anthony Booker from the University of Westminster, state that credible scientific evidence supporting ejiao's health claims is scarce, with many assertions being unsupported or exaggerated. The escalating demand has led to an estimated six million donkeys being slaughtered annually, with a significant portion of hides now sourced from Africa. Charities report that this trade fuels theft and illegal slaughter, impacting families who rely on donkeys for transport and livelihoods.
Shark-derived squalene, a moisturizing ingredient found in many anti-aging cosmetics, is another area of concern. While plant-based alternatives are available, deep-sea species like gulper sharks are heavily targeted for their oil-rich livers. These sharks reproduce slowly and are vulnerable to overfishing, leading to population declines of over 80 percent in some regions. Graham Buckingham of Bite-Back Shark & Marine Conservation notes that the cosmetic industry's demand for shark-derived squalene has driven the decline of vulnerable and endangered shark species, with an estimated one-fifth of global cosmetic squalene still sourced from sharks.
Bee venom is marketed as a natural alternative to Botox in anti-aging creams and serums. While commercial collection methods allow bees to survive, the impact of industrial-scale production on bee colonies is not well understood. Professor Norman Carrick of the University of Sussex suggests that frequent collection could disrupt foraging behavior and reduce honey production. Dermatologist Dr. Emma Wedgeworth notes a lack of high-quality clinical evidence supporting bee venom skincare claims, describing the 'natural Botox' concept as a marketing term rather than a scientific reality.
Krill oil is promoted as a superior alternative to fish oil due to claims of better absorption and health benefits. However, nutrition experts like registered dietitian Duane Mellor state that while krill oil contains omega-3 fatty acids similar to fish oil, the evidence for superior health benefits is limited. In the UK and Europe, companies are prohibited from claiming krill oil can treat or cure illnesses. Conservationists express concerns that krill fishing in the Antarctic, concentrated in areas vital for whales, seals, penguins, and other species, could disrupt the entire ecosystem, as krill is a primary food source for many Antarctic animals.
Collagen supplements have seen significant success, with claims of improving skin and joint health. While a 2023 review indicated modest benefits for skin hydration and elasticity, nutritional biochemist Jamie Christie emphasizes that collagen is not a