A ban on Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), a chemical used to harden gel nail polish under UV light, has taken effect in the United Kingdom. The substance was previously banned in the European Union in September. Products manufactured in the UK can no longer contain TPO, and salons using polishes with the chemical could face prosecution starting in early next year.
The legislation has prompted online discussions regarding the safety of gel manicures and other popular nail treatments. Nail treatments represent the most popular beauty therapy in the UK, with consumers spending approximately £160 million annually.
Gel manicures, including Shellac and pure gel, are popular for their long-lasting, glossy finish. The application process involves buffing the nail, applying the polish, and curing it under a UV lamp. Removal typically requires soaking in acetone. Gel products contain acrylates, which harden under UV or LED light. TPO was used in some formulations to facilitate this hardening process.
Studies involving rats exposed to TPO indicated reproductive problems. Research also suggests TPO could function as an endocrine disruptor, a class of substances that interfere with hormones. The World Health Organization identifies endocrine disruptors as a global threat, with some studies linking high exposure to increased risks of diabetes, developmental issues, and certain cancers.
However, experts emphasize that gel manicures themselves are not inherently unsafe, as many manufacturers and salons are transitioning to TPO-free alternatives. The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) states that all cosmetic nail products sold in the UK must adhere to strict safety regulations and undergo comprehensive assessments.
Nail experts note that potential risks often stem from application and removal techniques rather than the gel itself. Over-buffing can damage the nail, and aggressive filing over time can lead to visible damage. Dermatologists have also reported concerns about allergies to acrylates, which can be triggered by uncured gel contacting the skin and can result in permanent reactions.
Concerns have also been raised about the UV lamps used for curing gel polish. A 2023 study suggested that radiation from these lamps could damage skin cells in laboratory settings, leading to fears of a potential cancer risk. However, experts advise caution in interpreting these findings, stating that the real-world risk to salon clients is likely minimal. The UV exposure from occasional gel manicures is significantly less than cumulative sun exposure, which is the primary cause of skin cancer. Some dermatologists suggest applying sunscreen to the hands before gel appointments as a precautionary measure.
Builder Gel in a Bottle (BIAB), also known as builder gel, is marketed as a gentler alternative to acrylics. It provides a protective layer that can help nails grow longer by preventing daily knocks and breakages. BIAB contains oligomers, which add thickness and strength while maintaining flexibility. Despite its protective qualities, experts clarify that BIAB does not inherently improve the health of the natural nail underneath. Repeated application and removal, particularly if over-filed or removed aggressively, can still leave natural nails brittle, thin, or weak.
Acrylic nails are created by mixing a liquid and powder. They are known for their durability, with a fresh set lasting several weeks. While regulatory bodies maintain that nail products undergo rigorous safety checks, the removal process for acrylics can cause long-term damage. Repeated application and removal can strip keratin, the protein essential for nail strength. Leaving acrylics on for extended periods can also trap moisture, creating an environment conducive to bacterial growth.
Japanese Manicure
The Japanese manicure is gaining popularity for its natural, low-maintenance approach. This treatment, which does not involve polish, aims to give nails a natural shine and a break from chemical substances. It includes buffing nails with a mineral-rich paste and a powder containing beeswax to enhance glossiness. Advocates consider it a restorative and nourishing treatment focused on the natural nail plate, helping to condition and improve its appearance. Experts suggest that regular manicures, even without polish, are beneficial for maintaining nail health, rather than allowing nails to “breathe,” as nails are composed of dead cells and do not require air exposure to remain healthy.
The TPO ban does not prohibit gel manicures. The CTPA asserts that cosmetic products sold in the UK are regulated to ensure safety. TPO-free products often lack added fragrance and phthalates. Nail technicians are advised to wear masks due to potential exposure to chemicals linked to cancer. Consumers are cautioned against getting polish on the skin, ensuring proper curing with the correct lamp, and careful removal of excess product. Using professional-only products at home is also discouraged.