Tom Parker Bowles Reviews New Soho Turkish Restaurant 'Kid'

A new Turkish restaurant in London's Soho, named Kid, is receiving high praise from food critic Tom Parker Bowles. The establishment, a collaboration between restaurateur David Carter and chef Sertaç Dirik, is noted for its creative approach to Anatolian cuisine.

Carter, known for his successful ventures Smokestak, Manteca, and Oma, has partnered with Dirik, formerly of the acclaimed Dalston restaurant Mangal II, to create a dining experience that draws inspiration from Anatolian cooking but is not bound by strict tradition. The restaurant's name, 'Kid,' and its focus on open-fire cooking, central to the ocakbași style, are highlighted.

The restaurant's ambiance is described as having bare bricks and dim, smoky lighting, filled with a lively buzz. Service is noted as sublime. The menu features dishes such as a bluefin tuna 'ezme,' a spiced complexity served atop a crisp cracker, and içli köfte, a large dumpling filled with dry-aged beef mince and served with yogurt. Muhammara, a walnut and red pepper dip, is accompanied by beyaz peynir cheese and walnuts, offering a mix of pure and intricate flavors. The tombik pide bread is recommended for soaking up dips.

Meat dishes also receive commendation. Lamb belly and sweetbread skewers are described as magnificent, with the lamb belly presented as charred, succulent squares served over grilled onions. The slow-cooked shoulder of kid, braised overnight in a clay pot with fig leaf, is singled out as a standout dish, with its spoon-soft meat, crisp skin, and freekeh soaking up rich juices. Parker Bowles concludes that the pairing of Carter and Dirik is "is heaven sent" and that "Kid is quite simply divine."