Polynucleotides, a cosmetic ingredient previously only available through injectables, are now making their debut in skincare serums. This ingredient has rapidly become a topic of discussion in the aesthetics industry.

Bethan King, a writer who experienced success with polynucleotide injections for her under-eye circles in her 40s, explored whether a more accessible serum formulation could offer similar benefits. She noted that for years, nothing seemed to effectively address her under-eye concerns until she tried the injectable treatment. The emergence of polynucleotide serums raises the question of whether these topical applications can rival the results of professional procedures.

The appeal of polynucleotides lies in their ability to regenerate skin cells and promote tissue repair. Traditionally derived from fish sperm, these injections have been credited with improving skin texture, hydration, and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The advent of serum form offers a less invasive and potentially more affordable alternative for consumers.

However, the effectiveness of topical polynucleotides is still under scrutiny. While injectables deliver the compound directly into the deeper layers of the skin, serums work on the surface, and their ability to penetrate and yield comparable results is a key question. Initial user experiences suggest that while serums might not fully replicate the dramatic effects of injections, they can contribute to smoother skin texture.

Bethan says the texture is a little tacky – it doesn’t sink in quite as well as some of the others – but it left her skin feeling smooth.

Brands are responding to consumer preferences, with some offering vegan alternatives to the fish-derived ingredients. L'Oréal, for instance, has launched a new vegan product as an option for those who prefer not to use fish-based ingredients on their face. The texture and absorption of these serums also vary, with some formulations being slightly tacky and not sinking in as readily as others. This can impact user experience and suitability for different skin types, with water-oil textures potentially being more beneficial for drier complexions.

Not everyone wants fish-based products on their face, so L’Oreal has launched a new vegan product as an alternative to traditional PDRN.

As polynucleotide serums gain popularity, consumers are weighing the convenience and lower cost against the potentially more potent results of injectable treatments. The evolving landscape of skincare ingredients suggests a continued trend toward advanced, scientifically-backed formulations aimed at achieving skin rejuvenation.