Tamales Disappearing From US Restaurant Menus Due to Labor Costs

Tamales, a staple of Mexican cuisine, are becoming less common on restaurant menus across the United States. Over the past five years, tamale entrées have seen a 7.8% decrease, according to Technomic's Ignite Menu data comparing the second quarters of 2021 and 2026. This decline is largely attributed to the significant labor required to prepare tamales, particularly for a dish often expected to be inexpensive.

Robert Mahon, director of operations for Mahon Hospitality Group, which operates restaurants in New York City, noted that while tamales have been discussed for inclusion, the economics present a challenge. "Even though the ingredients might not be so costly, it’s more the labor," Mahon stated. "It’s so labor-intensive."

At Taquería Picoso in Alexandria, Virginia, executive chef Elio Gomez continues to serve tamales, a process he described as taking approximately three days. The preparation involves sourcing corn from Mexico for nixtamalization, a process that requires cooking the corn overnight. This is followed by grinding the corn into masa, separately preparing fillings, and preparing banana leaves for wrapping. The masa must then be carefully mixed with fat, broth, and salt, and aerated to achieve the correct consistency before assembly and cooking.

Gomez also highlighted the time commitment for training staff. He mentioned spending months working with the employee now responsible for making his restaurant's tamales. "A cook must learn how the masa should feel and how to wrap each tamale properly, so it doesn’t dry out during cooking," he explained. This intensive process contributes to tamales not generating the same demand as other popular Mexican dishes like tacos.

Mahon echoed this sentiment, stating that his customers do not express a strong demand for tamales. "They’re not walking out of our restaurants if they don’t have a tamale," he said. "It’s not expected as a staple anymore."

Pricing also poses a hurdle. Gomez charges $6 for a tamale, a price he feels is reasonable given the labor involved. However, this price point may be higher than what some customers historically associate with tamales. Despite their diminishing presence on some restaurant menus, the tamale itself is not disappearing entirely. Gomez, who grew up in Mexico City, recalled tamales as a common breakfast item sold by street vendors. In the U.S., he observes them being increasingly associated with holidays and family gatherings rather than everyday dining.

Gomez described the tamale experience as having a fluffy masa and a rich, comforting appeal, saying, "You feel like you’re getting a hug when you’re eating a tamale."