In Sokoto, one of northern Nigeria's most conservative states, a vibrant nightlife flourishes despite the presence of a morality police and persistent insecurity. The city, renowned as the “seat of the caliphate” for its historical significance in the spread of Islam in West and Central Africa, hosts multiple nightclubs that attract revelers with Afrobeats music and dancing.
Vincent Tabat, a patron of one such venue, described the scene as active even in the early morning hours, with music and socializing. "This is nearly 2 a.m., and as you can see, everyone is outside to have fun," Tabat told The Associated Press. Benjamin Danjuma, another frequent attendee, stated that weekend outings are essential for him and that the scene is comparable to those in more liberal southern Nigeria. "We are living our life more than anybody’s expectation in this state," he said. "There is so much groove going on. We are not left behind."
Oluwamayowa Idowu, founder of Culture Custodian, a Lagos-based publication, noted that nightlife has long been a part of Nigerian society, even in conservative areas. Amid economic hardship and security crises in the region, nightlife provides an escape for residents. "The north has been ravaged by insecurity, but people still live there, and people still participate in life there daily," Idowu explained.
The Hisbah force, the local Islamic police, operates in some of the region's 19 states to uphold public morals. Their duties include patrolling cities and enforcing Shariah and local laws, such as dress codes, haircuts, and alcohol bans, often resulting in the destruction of seized alcohol. While non-Muslims like Tabat and Danjuma are not strictly bound by Hisbah's rules, they have reported encounters with the group. This dynamic reflects Nigeria's religious composition, with a nearly even split between Christians, predominantly in the south, and Muslims in the north.
Following Nigeria's return to democracy in 1999, several northern states adopted Shariah law. The legal status of these laws within Nigeria's federal and secular framework remains an unresolved issue. The Hisbah force in Sokoto was previously disbanded in 2017 due to public complaints about its methods but was reestablished in 2024. Recently, the force announced a statewide ban in Sokoto on DJs at events, inappropriate haircuts, extravagant bridal gifts, and playing music on public transport.
Allegations of rights abuses, including public beatings and shaming of offenders, have been leveled against Hisbah members. Fu’ad Lawal, executive director at Archivi.ng, a digital historical database, stated that the implementation of Shariah law has extended beyond criminal matters to regulate public life, altering the interpretation of Nigeria's federalism and secular nature. However, the commander of the Sokoto State Hisbah, Usman Abdullahi Jatau, maintains that the force seeks to ensure "peace and stability through moral justice" and is not solely enforcing Shariah law, asserting that "every citizen needs to fulfill his or her moral obligation."
Despite the strict social codes, some venues attempt to navigate the balance. The nightclub where Tabat was partying has a policy against veils, turning away women who wear them, a notable exception in a city where head coverings are typically required for women. Analysts suggest that these strict social codes can add strain to a society already grappling with years of jihadi and rebel violence. Ibrahim Nuhu, a banker who moved to Sokoto, has observed the city's transformation from a subdued environment to one with a lively weekend scene, and has come to appreciate the growing nightlife.