For the first time in over 25 years, Americans have a new sunscreen ingredient option with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration's approval of bemotrizinol, also known as BEMT. The chemical, which has been a common choice in Europe and elsewhere for decades, is now appearing on U.S. store shelves in new sunscreen formulas.
Dermatologists view BEMT as filling a significant market gap by providing broad protection against both UVA and UVB rays without the cosmetic drawbacks of some older ingredients, such as white streaking on the skin. The new ingredient also boasts decades of safety data and minimal absorption into the skin, a concern with some previous sunscreen chemicals.
"It's not a brand-new ingredient that you're going to be the first person to try," said Dr. Jennifer Stein, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Health. "This ingredient provides a solution for what is currently a big gap with respect to providing strong UVA protection," added David Andrews, chief science officer of the Environmental Working Group.
Effective sunscreens must protect against UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and UVA rays, which contribute to skin cancer and wrinkles. Sunscreens that offer protection against both are labeled "broad spectrum." Historically, manufacturers needed to combine multiple ingredients to achieve this dual protection. BEMT is the first chemical-based sunscreen ingredient in the U.S. to offer this protection on its own.
Mineral-based sunscreens, such as those using zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, have long provided broad-spectrum protection by physically blocking UV rays. However, these can leave white residue, which is a particular concern for individuals with darker skin tones. Some users also dislike their texture or consistency. BEMT offers an alternative for those who find mineral sunscreens undesirable.
Concerns about chemical sunscreens have partly stemmed from their absorption into the skin. The FDA recently revoked the approval of oxybenzone, citing a greater-than-previously understood absorption rate into the bloodstream. BEMT, however, is described as a molecule too large to significantly penetrate the skin. Studies reviewed by the FDA indicated that BEMT levels absorbed into the skin were nearly undetectable, and it did not cause irritation or allergic reactions in patients who used it daily for up to three weeks. This led the FDA to designate BEMT as "generally recognized as safe and effective."
While some sunscreen ingredients have raised environmental concerns, particularly regarding coral reefs, more research is needed on BEMT's impact. Some European assessments have found limited evidence of environmental toxicity, but longer-term studies are recommended. Mineral ingredients are generally considered more environmentally friendly, though nano-formulations are a point of discussion.
Another advantage of BEMT is its stability. Unlike avobenzone, another UVA-filtering ingredient that can break down quickly in sunlight, BEMT is significantly more stable. Dermatologists continue to emphasize the importance of reapplying sunscreen every few hours, especially after swimming or sweating, and stress that sunscreen should be part of a broader sun-protection strategy that includes seeking shade and wearing protective clothing.