The Sutton Place neighborhood is experiencing a culinary revival with the opening of The Derby Club, located at 348 East 57th Street in the space formerly occupied by the beloved Irish pub Neary's. The establishment, from chef and partner Ed Cotton, aims to bring new life to an area described as a "culinary dead zone" since Neary's closed two years ago.
While The Derby Club retains Neary's original cherrywood bar and features "Neary's mint jelly" on its menu, it presents an entirely new dining experience. The venue boasts a more opulent setting than its predecessor, with an emphasis on elevated cuisine. The steakhouse menu is noted for surpassing the offerings at similar establishments.
The dining room, though initially recalling Neary's with the bar's placement, quickly diverges with intimate, softly lit tables. A new mural depicting 19th-century Sutton Place and the East River complements pleated red banquettes and white tablecloths. A vintage chandelier from the Waldorf-Astoria adds to the retro ambiance. The clientele at The Derby Club is described as stylishly yet conservatively dressed.
The restaurant had a soft opening in July and was not initially slated for a full public launch until after Labor Day. However, the local community's rapid embrace of the new venue prompted an immediate opening to all patrons. Cotton, along with partners Chris Coco and Craig Hutson, also operate Leonetta's in Murray Hill and Jack & Charlie's in the West Village. The Derby Club's menu aligns more closely with the American focus of Jack & Charlie's.
Despite an initial "wobbly start," the kitchen is increasingly producing successful dishes. Highlights from the menu include a grilled Wagyu beef hot dog ($25), described as intensely savory and served with pickles and crinkle-cut fries. A starter of baby shrimp stuffed with crab meat, paprika, and herbs ($24) is also noted as a luxurious bar snack.
While the menu leans American, Asian-inspired dishes have also received praise. A Thai-style salmon in a mild red curry broth ($45) and a Japanese-style miso-broiled black cod ($54) were unexpectedly excellent.
The rack of lamb persillade ($58 for a half rack, $110 for a full one) was a standout, cooked to a perfect medium-rare with a panko, thyme, rosemary, and Parmesan crust. The dish was lauded for its flavor, requiring no mint jelly.
The Derby Club also emphasizes its cocktails with a playful approach. A humorous exchange with a waiter about a classic daiquiri highlighted the bar's sophisticated yet lighthearted service. The classic daiquiri was prepared flawlessly, and the cocktail menu includes adventurous options like the "knockout punch," a blend of Italian, Swedish, and Jamaican rums with lime.
