An increasing number of men are using unregulated injectable peptides, such as melanotan (MT) and its variant MT2, commonly referred to as the 'Barbie peptide,' to achieve a darker skin tone. These synthetic hormones are designed to increase melanin production, offering a way to darken skin from within, often in conjunction with sun exposure.
Users like 22-year-old Hunter Neely, an online fitness instructor, turned to melanotan to enhance his appearance, aiming for a tan that he believed made him more attractive by improving his skin tone and defining his features. Similarly, Jasik Dhillon, a 22-year-old model, found that MT1 helped him achieve a desired look, noting that darker skin altered his appearance in a way that received positive comments.
Melanotan works by binding to melanocortin receptors, which stimulates melanin production. While MT1 targets specific receptors, MT2 affects a broader range, leading to faster and more pronounced tanning effects but also a higher likelihood of side effects. Neither MT1 nor MT2 is approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for tanning purposes, although MT1 has approval for a rare skin condition. MT2, however, has been flagged by the Emergency Care Research Institute and the Institute for Safe Medication Practices as lacking proven safety for human use.
Despite the lack of regulatory approval, these peptides are available on what is known as the 'gray market.' They are sold by unregulated manufacturers, through some clinics, and even in retail outlets, often accompanied by disclaimers stating they are for research purposes only and not for human consumption. This market is estimated to be worth around $100 million.
Users often incorporate melanotan into a larger regimen of peptides aimed at various enhancements, from muscle growth to wrinkle reduction. For some, peptides represent a path to perceived better health, weight loss, or longevity, while for others, like Neely and Dhillon, the appeal lies in achieving a specific aesthetic, a practice sometimes termed 'looksmaxxing.'
One significant concern raised by dermatologists is that the tanning effects of melanotan can create a false sense of security regarding sun exposure. Users may develop a perceived immunity to sunburn, leading them to spend more time in the sun or forgo sunscreen application, thereby increasing their risk of skin damage and cancer. This contradicts the misconception among some users that a tan prevents burning and protects against cancer.
Both Neely and Dhillon have reported experiencing short-term side effects. Flushing of the skin, particularly on the face, lasting for 30 minutes to an hour, was commonly cited. Neely also experienced anxiety for a similar duration, leading some users to take the peptide before bedtime. Hyperpigmentation has also been noted, with users observing darker skin in areas of previous acne or the appearance of new dark spots. Dermatologists caution that darkening moles could obscure changes that might indicate skin cancer, making monitoring more difficult.
Melanotan is typically sold as a powder that users mix with sterile water and self-inject, often following guidance from online communities. The unregulated nature of these products raises concerns about the accuracy of dosages and the sterility of the mixing and injection process. "Any time you're doing an injection, it's a medical procedure," said Dr. Joni Mazza, a dermatologist. "Between mixing, storage, dosing and injection, there's a lot of room for error there."
While users like Dhillon argue that most peptides are not inherently bad and the risk lies in the source, medical professionals advise caution. "My medical experience tells me don't inject something into your body unless you know for sure that it was studied, that it was manufactured in a safe way, that it is quantifiable," Mazza stated. Neely, however, continues to use MT2, believing it enhances muscle definition and supports his online fitness coaching business. He also profits from selling peptides as an affiliate, seeing it as a way to help others improve their lives as he feels peptides have improved his.