The burger at One Club Row, a restaurant located in London's Shoreditch neighborhood, has become a notable talking point, according to food critic Tom Parker Bowles. The establishment, which opened to positive reviews last year, is situated above The Knave of Clubs pub.
Inside, the restaurant features a large, high-ceilinged space with preserved original architectural elements, including a fireplace and plaster cornices, contributing to a Georgian-inspired ambiance. The dining area is set with white linen tablecloths, and a bar area offers seating for solo diners. One Club Row's design draws inspiration from New York taverns and Parisian bistros, aiming for an unaffected charm.
Parker Bowles highlighted several menu items, including gougères with a jalapeño-spiked cheese béchamel, Cantabrian anchovies served with marinated red pepper, and delicate lobster croquettes. Tuna crudo and a crabmeat dish with leeks and hazelnuts were also noted. The critic described the restaurant's martinis as "ice cold" and "dry."
The burger itself is described as "reassuringly simple," featuring a patty made from high-quality beef, cooked to a pink hue. It is served with raw onion, pickles, and melted cheese, accompanied by a side of au poivre sauce for dipping.
Beyond the food, the restaurant's staff received particular commendation, with Parker Bowles characterizing them as "genuinely lovely" and professional, contributing positively to the overall atmosphere. The estimated cost per person is around £35.
One Club Row is located at 1 Club Row, London E1.