Yerord Mas Bakery and Deli in Glendale, California, has ignited a culinary debate with its $38 brisket basturma sandwich, a creation that has been recognized by The New York Times as one of America's best. Chef Arthur Grigoryan has defended the sandwich's price, citing the high cost of premium ingredients and operational expenses.
Grigoryan stated that the sandwich contains at least half a pound of Australian Wagyu beef, which he sources at approximately $11.50 per pound. The preparation of the Wagyu, involving curing, smoking, and steaming, can take up to a week. The bread used is organic and fermented, described by The New York Times as "a marvel." The sandwich is further composed with Gruyère cheese, Persian pickles, and a housemade Mornay sauce.
Online discussions, particularly on Reddit, reveal a spectrum of opinions. Some commenters support Grigoryan, noting his years of perfecting the recipe and his commitment to scratch-made ingredients. Others have criticized the price as excessive and called for such pricing not to be normalized. Some suggested a smaller, more affordably priced option if the sandwich is indeed large enough to serve two people, as noted by LA Times restaurant critic Bill Addison.
Beyond the cost, the deli's policies have also drawn attention. Yerord Mas does not offer bathrooms for customers, directing them to a nearby Trader Joe's, and does not serve alcohol. Grigoryan has also maintained a strict policy against takeout orders, explaining that the sandwich is intended to be eaten fresh and hot. He believes that takeout would diminish the intended quality and experience of the dish, stating it was "not built to sit in a box, steam itself to death, and show up at your house as a sad little shadow of what we worked hard to make."
Despite the controversy and perceived lack of amenities, proponents argue that the quality of the food, which is anchored in Grigoryan's Armenian heritage, outweighs these concerns. In response to the discourse, Grigoryan issued a statement via Instagram: "To anyone who misunderstands what we’re trying to do or sees restaurants only through the lens of hype: that’s okay. We know who we’re cooking for, we know what we stand for, and we will keep doing the work with the same purpose and conviction that brought us here."
Yerord Mas Bakery and Deli is open Wednesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.