John Galliano's Zara Collection Draws Crowds Despite Controversy and High Prices

Hundreds of shoppers, described as mature, glamorous, and wealthy, queued on London's Bond Street for the launch of the RE(form) Zara collection, designed by controversial couturier John Galliano. The collaboration, featuring prices ranging from £16.99 for a scarf to £699 for an evening dress, is noted as potentially the most expensive high street collaboration to date. The launch, held in only two stores in London and Madrid, was shrouded in secrecy.

The collection has generated significant excitement, with one shopper remarking, 'He may not be the nicest person, but this collection is amazing.' This sentiment reflects the complex public perception of Galliano, whose career was marred by controversy in 2011 when he was fired by Christian Dior after making antisemitic and racist remarks. He has since rebuilt his career, becoming creative director at Maison Margiela in 2014. His history resurfaced recently when a planned exhibition of his work at the Metropolitan Museum of Art was canceled following public outcry.

Fashion editor Dinah Van Tulleken, who was among the first to try on the collection, noted the palpable excitement and the high price points. She observed a fabulously cut black overcoat priced at £469 and a t-shirt for £59.99, with more elaborate pieces, like a black feathered evening dress, costing £699. Many items were selling out rapidly, with some shoppers having already made purchases online before the store opened.

Van Tulleken described the in-store experience as distinct from typical high street launches. Staff offered apologies for wait times, and shoppers were dressed in high-end fashion. Access to the Galliano section was limited to 27 people at a time, and shoppers were assigned personal sales assistants, creating an atmosphere more akin to a luxury boutique than a fast-fashion store. The presentation resembled an art gallery installation, with pieces displayed rather than hung on rails.

Despite the elaborate setup and the slow process of trying on items, Van Tulleken found several pieces to be desirable. She praised a grey pinstripe suit made of 100 percent wool, with a blazer costing £289 and trousers £229. A £289 mixed-fabric pareo wraparound skirt was also a favorite, despite being difficult to get in and out of. The £469 herringbone coat with fur trim was described as a statement piece with a menswear-inspired tailcoat design. A £699 black tulle and dotted-mesh midi dress was noted for its resemblance to Galliano's work for Zendaya's 2024 Met Gala look. Van Tulleken also commented on a £399 pink guipure dress layered with tulle and faux fur, finding it surprisingly wearable.

Van Tulleken concluded that the collection offers high-quality fabric, excellent cut, and a sense of drama, making it the closest many high street shoppers might get to designer clothing. The collection's rapid sell-out and the anticipation for a second drop before Christmas suggest that Zara is aiming to create an occasion around the collaboration, leveraging scarcity, secrecy, and a luxury-like shopping experience. For Van Tulleken and many other shoppers, the clothes themselves proved to be the ultimate draw, eliciting an emphatic desire to wear them.