An undercover investigation at an organic chicken farm in North Carolina has revealed significant animal neglect and abuse, challenging the perceived ethical standards of organic farming and its supply chains. The farm, which supplies Pilgrim's Pride, a major chicken producer that sells to Costco, was found to be in violation of multiple USDA organic standards and was also certified as humane by the American Humane Society.

The investigation, conducted by an undercover worker for the nonprofit Mercy For Animals, documented conditions including unsanitary living environments, severe neglect of sick and injured birds, and outright abuse. According to the investigator, who used the pseudonym Sam, instances of improper euthanasia were frequent, with birds allegedly bludgeoned to death with PVC pipes and rakes, crushed with buckets, or slammed against walls. The investigator also documented instances of chickens being kicked and thrown, and many birds suffering from severe injuries and untreated illnesses.

Violations of Organic Standards

While the farm provided more space in its barns compared to conventional farms, it allegedly failed to meet other key USDA organic requirements. These alleged violations include:

  • Outdoor Access: Despite having outdoor space, the birds were reportedly never granted access. The farm manager cited a temporary exemption due to inclement weather, though the investigator stated no major weather events occurred during his employment.
  • Ammonia Levels: Ammonia levels in the barns, primarily from chicken waste, were recorded at up to 100 parts per million, significantly exceeding the USDA's recommended limit of 25 parts per million. High ammonia levels can cause respiratory problems and blindness.
  • Darkness: Organically raised chickens are required to have at least eight continuous hours of darkness daily for sleep. However, the farm manager reportedly provided only 3-4 hours, with plans to increase it only on days when Pilgrim's Pride employees were scheduled to visit. Producers often limit darkness to increase light exposure, encouraging birds to eat and grow faster.

Pilgrim's Pride stated it was "deeply disturbed by the conduct" at the farm, has dropped it as a supplier, and will conduct additional third-party audits. Costco and the American Humane Society did not respond to requests for comment, though the American Humane Society later stated it is launching its own investigation.

Systemic Issues in the Industry

The investigation highlights perceived shortcomings in oversight from governmental bodies, corporate animal welfare guidelines, and third-party certifiers. Mercy For Animals has filed a formal complaint with the Lee County Sheriff's Department in North Carolina, seeking criminal charges against the farm manager for animal cruelty and false advertising.

Beyond specific farm practices, animal advocacy groups point to broader issues within the poultry industry. Modern chickens are bred for rapid growth and large breast size, leading to health problems such as leg deformities, difficulty walking, and premature death from heart and lung conditions. These welfare concerns extend across much of the industry, as 80 percent of chickens in the U.S. are raised by just 10 companies using similar fast-growing breeds and management practices.

Mercy For Animals argues that companies like Costco have the power to enact significant change by adopting reforms such as slower-growing breeds and improved living conditions, which they claim would reduce suffering for millions of chickens annually. The organization noted that a 2021 investigation into Costco's conventional chicken line found similar welfare problems.

Animal welfare advocates propose several solutions to mitigate suffering on farms, including higher organic welfare standards, federal welfare laws for conventionally raised livestock, more frequent and unannounced audits with stricter penalties, and the installation of CCTV cameras on farms. Some also advocate for the creation of a dedicated federal animal welfare agency. However, the U.S. poultry and grocery sectors have largely resisted pressure to implement these changes, with European countries showing more progress in moving away from fast-growing chicken breeds.