Throughout history, the pursuit of beauty has led individuals to employ practices that were often far more dangerous than their modern counterparts might suggest. From ancient Rome to the Victorian era and beyond, beauty standards have driven people to use toxic substances and undergo extreme procedures, many of which carried severe health risks, including blindness and death.
In ancient Rome and Elizabethan England, lead was a common ingredient used to lighten the skin. This toxic metal, often in the form of Venetian ceruse—a mixture of lead carbonate and vinegar—was applied directly to the face. Side effects included hair loss, tooth decay, and skin discoloration, which were then often masked with more lead-based makeup.
Another method for achieving a pale complexion was the ingestion of arsenic. Popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, arsenic worked by reducing red blood cells. Marketed as "improved harmless arsenic complexion wafers," these were linked to blindness and fatalities. After they were removed from the market, some individuals resorted to extracting arsenic from flypaper.
During the Italian Renaissance, the toxic belladonna plant was used to dilate pupils, aiming for a seductive, wide-eyed look. Belladonna, which translates to "beautiful woman" in Italian, could cause rapid heartbeat, convulsions, hallucinations, and even death.
Shifting Perceptions of Skin Tone and Sun Exposure
While pale skin was historically a symbol of status, signifying a life free from outdoor labor, this trend shifted dramatically in the 20th century. The sun-kissed look gained popularity after Coco Chanel was photographed in Cannes in 1923. The rise of beach culture and tanning booths, or "solariums," followed. By the 1970s, tan lines were associated with sexual freedom, and in the 1980s, tanning became more competitive, with people using oils or even Coca-Cola to enhance sun exposure. Contemporary trends like "tanmaxxing," which involves maximizing tanning without sun protection, continue to highlight the risks, as tanning beds and oils are known to cause DNA damage and melanoma.
Extreme Fashion and Body Modification
The fascination with electricity in the late 19th century also extended to beauty products. Electric flesh brushes and corsets were developed, with electrical corsets purportedly designed to control rather than augment female sexuality. These corsets, following a long history of restrictive undergarments, could lead to muscular atrophy, organ displacement, and reduced lung capacity.
The phrase "mad as a hatter" originated from the use of mercury in the hat-making industry during the Industrial Revolution. Workers and hat wearers were exposed to toxic mercury fumes used in treating felt, leading to symptoms such as hallucinations, speech impediments, and tremors.
Victorian fashion also featured the cage crinoline skirt, a stiff hoop skirt made of steel, wood, and horsehair. These skirts were highly flammable, leading to numerous deaths. Between 1850 and 1860, an estimated 3,000 deaths occurred due to cage crinoline fires.
Other Historical Remedies and Modern Echoes
In ancient Egypt and Rome, crocodile dung was used in baths and face masks, believed to combat aging. Additionally, urine therapy, or "urotherapy," was practiced in ancient Greece, Egypt, and Rome. Valued for its ammonia content, urine was used to treat skin conditions. A resurgence of interest in urotherapy occurred around 2016, with proponents claiming it could treat eczema, acne, and psoriasis, though some users reported facial rashes.
Modern beauty practices continue to push boundaries, with movements like "looksmaxxing" popular in online communities. This trend emphasizes improving appearance through any means necessary, including extreme methods like leg-lengthening surgery or injectable peptides. While some synthetic peptides are FDA-approved, many unregulated versions carry unknown risks due to a lack of clinical trials, yet their use continues to grow.