Fish and Chip Industry Expert Shares Views on Top Shops and Seafood Debate
Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers, discusses what makes a great chip shop, his preferred fish, and the future of the industry.
What makes a truly excellent fish and chip shop? For Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers, it’s more than just the basic ingredients of potato, fish, and flour. "People think fish and chips are easy," Crook told the Daily Mail. "But getting the consistency of the batter right, choosing the right fish – and making sure you handle it right, plus selecting the right potatoes are all big factors."
Crook, who has been in the industry for 27 years, emphasizes continuous improvement as a hallmark of top establishments. "The thing that makes an excellent fryer is they're always changing something. They've always got a desire to improve. They're always constantly tweaking things, and I think that's what drives the industry forward."
When it comes to the age-old debate between cod and haddock, Crook acknowledges regional preferences but leans towards the sweet flavor of haddock, despite cod often being considered "king." "Cod is still the king and sustainably sourced but it is incredibly expensive wholesale now," he noted. "I just love the sweet flavour of haddock."
Crook's personal favorite fish and chip establishment is Colmans Fish and Chips in South Shields, which he describes as "iconic" not just for its food but also for its hospitality. The eatery dates back to 1926 and has even served celebrities like James Corden.
While many associate fish and chips with seaside dining, Crook, who owns Skippers in Euxton, Chorley, asserts that a quality meal can be found inland. He explains that most fish is frozen at sea, meaning freshness isn't necessarily tied to coastal proximity, though he admits the seaside location enhances the overall experience for many. "I do think there's something about being next to the water that in people's minds make them think the fish is fresher, there's a bit of kidology," he said.
He considers Whitby in North Yorkshire the "spiritual home of fish and chips," noting the consistently high standard of chip shops in the area.
Crook's own preferred order is haddock, battered in the traditional Yorkshire style, with chips and mushy peas, cooked in beef dripping. He opts out of adding "scraps," believing the batter on the fish is sufficient.
The price of fish and chips has seen a significant increase, with the average cost now around £11, up from £6.95 five years ago, according to the Office for National Statistics. Crook attributes this rise to factors including hospitality taxes, tight profit margins, energy costs, and the escalating wholesale price of cod, exacerbated by decades of overfishing. Despite these challenges, he remains optimistic about the industry's future, highlighting the innovation and dedication of new entrants.
"Not the most profitable time to be in fish and chips, but it's an exciting time," Crook stated. "We're really impressed with the people that are coming through, there is a bright future there."