On National Cheeseburger Day, the debate over the best cheese for a burger continues, but an expert from the Center for Dairy Research (CDR) sheds light on the science behind why certain cheeses melt better and are preferred by consumers.
A 2015 YouGov/HuffPost survey found that 71% of U.S. adults preferred cheeseburgers over hamburgers. Among cheeseburger fans, American cheese was the top choice with 40%, followed by cheddar at 31%.
Gina Mode, coordinator of the Cheese Industry and Applications Group at CDR, explained that the ideal burger cheese must taste good, melt well, and stay put on the burger. "You want it to have that nice cheese flavor, that cheddar flavor," Mode said. "You want it to have a nice softness to it when it melts, and you also don't want it to flow off your burger."
The meltability of a cheese depends on its composition, pH, and the amount of intact casein, a milk protein. As natural cheeses age, their structure changes, which can enhance flavor but diminish meltability. Older cheddars, for instance, may crumble and release oil when melted.
Younger, natural cheeses that maintain their structure are generally good choices for burgers. These include Colby, Monterey Jack, Muenster, Swiss, and low-moisture mozzarella and provolone. For aged cheeses like blue cheese or Brie, Mode suggests shredding or crumbling them onto the burger, or even incorporating them inside the patty.
American cheese, a processed cheese, is a popular choice because it consistently melts smoothly. "You start with a natural cheese, like a cheddar, and you shred it or grind it, and then you cook it along with an emulsifying salt," Mode explained. The emulsifier helps bind the fat and water components of the cheese, preventing separation and resulting in a uniform melt.
Mode also highlighted newer "natural American cheeses" that use modified cheesemaking recipes to achieve similar meltability without emulsifying salts, offering a "cleaner label" option. She also noted the appeal of flavored cheeses, such as those with added spice, herbs, or smoke, and recommended spreadable cold pack cheese as a flavorful option for burger buns.
For the perfect melt, Mode advises adding cheese at the very end of the cooking process. "The burger is finished cooking, and usually at the end you let it rest a little, and that's the perfect time to add the cheese," she said. If using a thicker slice of cheese, like cheddar, covering the burger briefly can help retain heat and ensure a good melt.