Columnist Blames Starbucks for Coffee Decline, Offers Method for 'Perfect Cup'

Columnist Peter Hitchens has asserted that the rise of chains like Starbucks has led to a decline in coffee quality, describing the current landscape as an "ocean of headache-inducing espresso" and a "great lake of instant brown liquid."

In his critique, Hitchens recalls his first experience with truly good coffee at the age of 14 during a train journey to Paris on the Golden Arrow. He described this coffee, prepared with a metal filter, as a revelation that "altered my entire view of the world." He contrasted this with his earlier experiences in England, including the "disgustingly sugared" instant coffee of the time and the "frothy coffee" served in "pretentious fake-Italian cafes."

He notes that even bottled coffee like Camp Coffee, which he remembers his grandfather drinking, has changed, with its label altered to suit contemporary times.

A Shift in Taste

Hitchens argues that the shift towards espresso-dominant coffee culture, exemplified by Starbucks, has resulted in beverages that are either excessively strong or lack flavor. He recalls an anecdote about Charles de Gaulle, who, upon being served English coffee in London in 1940, supposedly asked if it was "perhaps the famous English tea?"

He acknowledges that some establishments, like the now-vanished Elizabeth Restaurant in Oxford, once offered high-quality coffee made with elaborate apparatus. However, he contends that the "Starbucks revolution" has led to a widespread decrease in quality, with little available "but espresso coffee."

Hitchens suggests that even Americans, who he notes often make coffee that is "feeble and thin," can produce good coffee, citing Lou Mitchell's in Chicago as an example. He also briefly mentions Turkish and Soviet coffee as having potential quality, though often lacking milk or served cold.

The Method for a Better Brew

For those seeking to replicate good coffee at home, Hitchens outlines a simple method. He emphasizes the importance of using "good beans, properly ground (preferably by hand) and a good solid jug."

His technique involves pouring water that has just boiled onto the grounds, stirring, and allowing the grounds to form a crust on top. After a minute or two, he suggests passing a cold spoon through the crust, waiting for the grounds to sink, and then pouring the coffee.

Hitchens advises against adding cold milk, recommending instead to gently heat the milk or use cream to avoid ruining the taste. He concludes that this method produces coffee that is not overly bitter or weak, requiring no sugar and avoiding the need to "swamp it with great vats of steamed, skimmed milk."