Cloth Cornhill: London Chophouse Receives Glowing Review
A historic London chophouse, Cloth Cornhill, has been lauded for its successful revival, blending traditional elements with modern culinary touches.
Cloth Cornhill, situated on the site of the former Simpson's Tavern, has been described as a captivating blend of old and new. Once known as the ‘oldest chophouse in London,’ it was a City institution frequented by literary figures like Charles Dickens. The restaurant retains elements of its past, including high-backed booths, large bow windows, original tiles, and a clientele that still includes many men, some in traditional pinstripes and others in contemporary attire.
The menu, while appearing hearty and traditional with dishes like sausages, steak, and Barnsley chops, reveals subtle modern enhancements. The renovations are described as subtle and conscientious, aiming to preserve the original ambiance while improving the overall experience. Notably, the presence of a woman dining alone at the bar is highlighted as a sign of progress, given the historical context where women were excluded until 1916.
Dishes receiving particular praise include the homemade sausage, noted for its pork content and spice. The crab cocktail is also commended for its freshness and abundance of both brown and white meat, complemented by apple and pickled celeriac. A smoked haddock, mussel, and leek gratin is characterized as a comforting and well-executed dish.
Cloth Cornhill also ventures into French cuisine with its Provençal panisse, described as light and flavorful when topped with sardine and onion. Even the restaurant's take on the traditional 'dumpling,' presented as a gnocchi filled with Taleggio and girolles, is noted for its quality. The article suggests that the vegetarian option is as accomplished as the Suffolk pork chop, which is praised for its fattiness and juiciness.
Ultimately, Cloth Cornhill is recognized for its ability to be seemingly old-fashioned yet resolutely modern, offering a refined experience without ostentation. It is characterized as a faded London classic that has been thrillingly reinvented.
The review indicates that the cost is approximately £50 per head. Cloth Cornhill is located at 38½ Cornhill, London EC3, with a website at clothrestaurants.com.